Textile Insight

implified solutions to complex problems often result in the most compelling technologies. This is certainly true in performance textiles with advances like waterproof/breathables, moisture manage- ment and lightweight warmth. Now comes a wave of tech developments that bring fresh thinking to textile fundamentals. While per- formance is a key element, this new class of problem-solvers often has an added twist of eco for good measure. Here's a look at how a few companies are elevating the color, fit and authenticity of materials used for active apparel and footwear. Next Gen Solution Dyeing What do you get when you take an off- the-shelf technology and re-imagine it as an "Intel inside" type ingredient brand? In this case, it's called e.dye. After several years in development, and a ballpark investment of $10M, that includes building its own plant, e.dye has introduced a Waterless Color System that features an environmentally sustainable dyeing process designed to enhance the color quality and consistency of the yarn. "What we did was look at simple solutions to problems with solution dyeing and figure out how to solve the issue of quantity, color and efficiency," says Michael Murphy, who handles sales and marketing for e.dye. In other words, says Murphy, "We have adopted solu- tion dyeing for the fashion business." Solution dyeing is an established yarn-dyeing technology. During the solution-dyeing process, dyestuffs are mixed with the synthetic pellets prior to spinning into yarn. The resulting yarn is permanently colored and ideal for applications requiring big runs in a small range of colors. Recently, solution dyeing has captured the attention of textile execs because of its inherent low-water usage. Compared to traditional piece dyeing, solution dyeing uses up to 60 percent less water, or even 75 percent less water in the case of e.dye, according to Murphy. Solution dyeing also offers a reduction in CO2 emis- sions, upwards of 60 percent for polyester, for example. These attractive eco-benefits have spurred outdoor companies to explore and/ or expand use of solution dyeing. But sustainability is not the whole story with e.dye. "We have a very strong color story, too, and the ability to provide minimums," Murphy states. "The challenge with solution dyeing is the usual order quantity is around 30,000 yards, and a very limited color palette is the norm. We provide MOQs and offer 3,800 colors and a precise color system for matching and consistency." Unlocking the Door to Innovation & Branded Tech Building, owning and operating its own yarn extrusion factory is key to the development of e.dye, says Murphy. The plant, known as the e.dye Innovation Center, is located in Kun- shan, China, (not far from Shanghai), where pilot lines are up and running doing yarns in colors with no minimums. The Waterless Color System is compatible with synthetics; the yarn must be extruded which exempts wool and cotton – for the moment anyway. Currently e.dye is focused on polyester. Each of the 3,800 extruded yarn colors is bound to a specific color recipe in the Master Batch that e.dye manufacturers and controls, with colorants mixed in its factory. "We have simplified color management," states Murphy, who explains it as "3800 data point inside the color space." He adds, "No one in the traditional 'water dye' industry can match this precision. Our IP is knowledge of color and the recipe book." The company's approach to marketing is also unique. e.dye will be promoted like a branded component along the lines of an "Intel inside." Says Murphy, "Brands can further differentiate through e.dye. No one else has taken that tact." The outdoor industry is e.dye's initial target audience, believing that its Waterless Color System will make a sustainability splash in this market. O TECHNOLOGY | COLOR & CLAIMS 24 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2017 textileinsight.com Modern Approaches to Elevating Textile Essentials. By Emily Walzer The New Fundamentals Authenticity Levels Up Since the color is inside the yarns when using e-dye Waterless Color System, the colors won't fade or bleed on to adjacent colors — in contrast to conventional dye process when color is applied topically. TECHNOLOGY | CLAIMS he future is not just knowing the cow and the farm where your meat came from, "but knowing where your leather pock- etbook came from as well," says MeiLin Wan, VP textile sales, Applied DNA Sciences. "It's important from the very beginning to prove authenticity, and our science is continuing to improve authenticity in textile fibers and yarns." Wan and her colleague John Shearman, executive director marketing, explain that there is a lot of uncertainty in today's supply chain, and this problem is only getting worse as pressure rises for companies to brings costs down. "Now lots of claims are being made and there is no real oversight," says Wan. "The days of paper documentation are over! It's all online, and it's even easier to manipulate the information." According to Wan and Shearman, the basic question is "how do you trust what you are buying?" Stony Brook, NY- based Applied DNA Sciences answers that query with a sophis- ticated platform of systems that protect

• Cover