Textile Insight

TECHNOLOGY | FIT textileinsight.com Evaluating Fit in a Rapidly Evolving Digital Environment. Shape Matters ecently described as "that dreaded three-letter word," fit remains a fundamental challenge. New technologies and the dramatic increase in online shopping have made the topic of fit a major talking point this year. It makes sense. While there have been advances, in many cases fit continues to rely on conventional sizing meth- ods, not to mention that online customers often need to have a tape measure handy. And let's face it: how many people not in the textile/apparel/retail business even have a tape measure? The future of fit was discussed at a PI Apparel NY session last month. Panelists discussed how brands and retailers capture fit data, how they communicate fit to customers and how firms are using fit data to create products that better serve today's global consumer. (For more on PI Apparel NY, please see page 8.) A prime take away from the conversation is that fit is increasingly about shape, not size. A new way of thinking of fit is three dimensionally, an approach that results in higher rates of fit satisfaction and lower rates of returns. Tech is another key to solving fit challenges. New processes using body scans, software and digitization are more available and accessible. Companies adopt- ing the latest innovations report time and cost savings. But difficulties getting employees on board with new tech may play a role. Said panelist Gina Patterson, Fit engi- neering manager, Columbia Sportswear, "In some cases, FIT teams are not the first adopters of digital." Patterson, who has been with Columbia for 13 years and manages a team of nine, added, "It's about getting them comfortable with the program and getting confident." Columbia relies on customer feedback for fit information along with retail feedback gathered by the merchandising team. Alvanon understands these issues and looks to change the dynamic. "Alvanon helps people navigate this digital journey when it comes to fit," explained panel moderator, Ed Gribbin, Alvanon president, who is encouraged by what he sees happening in the marketplace. "Four years ago, when a doing a presentation I said that 3D for fit pur- poses, was five to 10 years away. And the following year I said that I was dead wrong, because we've seen leaders in our industry really making inroads, and shown how 3D is contributing not just to increased accuracy and consistency but to speed! Which we all know is a prerequisite to suc- cess going forward." Forward-Thinking on Fit Historically businesses put a size chart in a catalog or on a website and execs cross their fingers that A) customers can understand it B) take their own measurements and C) hope these garments come close to fitting customers based on the fit standards. This is particularly challenging in the plus market, accord- ing to Marijo Lewandowski, technical design director, Fullbeauty Brands, a catalog driven web-based company that caters to the fit needs of plus size women and men. "There is a range of body types in plus size and getting a bust, waist, hip measurement doesn't tell the whole story when it comes to fit," she explained. "There is the added dimension of the depth of body from front to the back." In other words, to understand the diversity of body shapes, it's not about measurements. "If shape doesn't match then all bets are off," said Lewandowski. Students at Buffalo State University of New York are learn- ing this first hand at the school's Fit Lab, a facility with tech and manufacturing capability. Panelist Lynn Boorady, chair and associate professor, outlined the fit process explain- ing the students start with the body scan and import that information into (Optitex) software. Students digitize this info, and then alter the pattern in the computer to fit the 3D avatar that's been cre- ated on that body type. "It doesn't completely do away with fit, but it is certainly more accu- rate," added Boorady. "By doing it virtually the first time, its about minor changes, not the major ones. So that has cut down on our timeline tremendously." During a discussion on the future of fit, Gribbin called on audience member Chris Lane, CEO of Atlanta-based company 3dMD, specializing in developing and marketing static-3D and motion-3D camera systems. "I don't like the word scanning anymore, I like to think that we are 'calibrat- ing' people," said Lane. He stressed that it is important to collect as much data as one can even if you don't know how to use it yet. "We are going to be in a rapid evolution cycle and asking customers to wear clothes layered with tech and intelligent fabric, and we need to understand all this." Lane identified areas that will advance the future of fit: experience, time and lifestyle. Of capturing data, he said, "we have to make this fun for the consumer. There is noth- ing fun about standing naked alone in a machine. Fit has to be a fun experience." And it has to be an "instant episode," Lane explained. "When we designed our foot system, it took about 40 seconds to gather the information." Lastly, he suggested re-thinking fit as "shape definition" and understanding how body shape changes depending on time of day and activity. Women, for instance, should buy a dress at the time they plan to wear that garment. "That's the type of information we need to move forward on fit." O 28 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2017 "If shape doesn't match then all bets are off." Marijo Lewandowski, Fullbeauty Brands

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