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FOOTWEAR | SPRING '18 For the Season Ahead, Natural Packs a Punch on Multiple Fronts. By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry Earthy Iterations hether it's describing a mate- rial, a technique, or even just a feeling, "natural" is a descriptor that's not only aspirational in the outdoor market, it's one that's preoccupying design- ers and brands. From the success of Gwyneth Paltrow's Goop empire to food to wellness, the idea of reconnecting with the world around us seems especially relevant across the board. And consumer goods is no exception: The latest crop of outdoor footwear suggests that going natural is something the market is going to see. This can be interpreted as good news for outdoor firms. For starters, it means the signature color palette of the outdoor market is hitting its stride in the fashion world, with a new wave of earthy shades coming to market. While browns and tans have been a stalwart of the outdoor industry since the beginning, trend expert Haysun Hahn of Fast Forward Trending said brown is poised to become a default neutral across the board. (Hahn and other color trend analysts work several seasons out — some projections, she said, are finished through the Fall/Winter '22 season, so this should be a trend with legs.) "We're seeing a shift from gray to brown — and the color in the middle is very critical," she said, referencing the grayish brown tone of aged driftwood as that important overlap. "Wood is the new metal." Natural Shades & Textures Hawaiian-inspired OluKai, known for its leather sandals and boots, shows off its signature material in men's and women's sandals styles in woodsy shades for spring. But the brand references the natural world in other ways, too: the women's Hi'ona Pa'i style, available in both brown and coral, contrasts a reptilian embossed print with pebbled and smooth leathers. Sumi Scott, director of product for The North Face's Mountain Lifestyle division, said her team has been using the term "Super Naturals" when describing Spring '18. "A lot of people are really wanting this natural feeling, with natural fibers that have texture and feel organic and imperfect," she said. "There's more of an emotional connection, when people can see texture and the materials." Things like canvases and waxed canvases, she said, have a cottony feel but offer performance benefits, which is where the "super" part comes in. "Performance can mean a lot of different things — UPF or wicking, and even comfort and durability, which are really important," she said. Cork & More For that reason, using materials with an organic connection is a no-brainer. Cork has been a longtime footwear favorite for its natural cushioning properties Keen Newport Hemp 30 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2017 textileinsight.com