Textile Insight

rograms designed to be better at collecting data and providing risk assessment are gaining ground as businesses become more astute on the latest tech devel- opments and how to implement chemical management practices throughout the entire supply chain. Advances in transparency, testing and tracking of chemicals are giving way to effective and efficient means of restricting harmful substances from textile products. While these strides in sustainability are to be applauded, and have greatly increased chemical manage- ment awareness inside the industry and beyond to the consumer arena, there is a flip side: A marketplace that is now a hodge-podge of rules with power shifting from the federal to the state level adding a new level of confusion. How active a role states now play in chemical regulation was a topic of discussion at the AAFA Product Safety seminar last month. "What we have now is a patchwork quilt of state laws and it's not easy to keep up," commented Frank Citera, a shareholder in the law firm Greenberg Trurig. Citera was joined on a panel with Andy Hackman, a lob- byist with Serlin Haley. Both execs have deep background dealing with regulatory issues and provided a big picture outlook, along with specifics, during a "State of the States" afternoon session of the AAFA-sponsored seminar. Six states in particular are leading the charge: Maine, California, Vermont, Oregon, Washington and Minnesota. Much of the legislation at the state level deals with toy makers and children's products, however two textile substances, antimony and formaldehyde, are under increasing scrutiny. Jimmy Summers, VP Sustainability, American Efird posed the question, "Is there going to be a day when there is no polyester fabric and plastic water bottles in Oregon because of antimony?" Likely not, however, not for lack of conversation. Antimony is a catalyst used in polyester finishing. Formaldehyde is used for wrinkle-free, perma-press, anti- static, anti-shrink purposes. Workwear and flame retardant apparel are often cited as target end use applications. Background on antimony is available on the Antimony International Association: www.antimony.com. Michelle Wallace of Cotton, Incorporated said the orga- nization has worked on formaldehyde for a long time, and that there are ways to neutralize the substance in addition to new developments in formaldehyde options that offer equivalent performance proper- ties. She mentioned the Japanese immersion test and AATCC test as the two common methods for evaluating formaldehyde levels. "As Europe goes, and as California goes, so goes the world," said Nate Sponsler, director, AFIRM Group, Orinda, CA. The organization, owned by California-based Phylan Group, is not new, but it is currently looking to make more of a name for itself here in the States, according to Sponsler whose background includes serving as sustainability manager at The Gap. AFIRM outlines its purpose as providing a forum to advance the global management of restricted substances in apparel and footwear, communicate information about RSL to the supply chain, discuss concerns, and exchange ideas for improving RSL management. O 10 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2017 textileinsight.com IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE Regulations Shift from Federal to State Control Chem Management Evolves with Greater Awareness and Some Confusion. OEKO-TEX Celebrates 25th Anniversary New York City was an epicenter of textile sustainability and sourcing recently, as trade events converged in Manhattan with executives focused on these two increasingly important industry topics. Oeko-Tex was on the scene to both inform, and celebrate, the association's achievements. Oeko-Tex sponsored an AAFA Product Safety Seminar held at Fashion Institute of Technology and hosted a reception celebrating a milestone 25th Anniversary in conjunction with the AAFA Sourcing Conference. Also of note, the Oeko-Tex Association recently expanded its product portfolio to fit the needs of the leather industry with its new Leather Standard. The first certifications were awarded to G.L. Bowron and Gerberei Hofbrucker, as well as with the retail chain LIDL. Oeko-Tex team (l to r): Dina Dunn, PR; Anna Czerwinska, Marketing & Communications; Elana Page, Account Manager; and Ben Mead, Managing Director, U.S. ON THE ECO RADAR: New regulations on flame-retardants Federal issues including TSCA and the CPSC agenda New tools to understand regulations in key overseas markets More focus on cellulosics TSCA = Toxic Substance Control Act CPSC = Consumer Product Safety Commission "As Europe goes, and as California goes, so goes the world." Nate Sponsler, AFIRM Group

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