Textile Insight

Textile Insight November 2017

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24 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2017 textileinsight.com SAMIT CHEVIL Principal Investigator, Product and Global Application Development DuPont Sorona Chevil is responsible for the development and test- ing of new textile fibers from bio-based materials, leveraging powerful tools and prototypes to simulate real-life experiences on the fibers. He has worked in a variety of positions during his 15 years with DuPont Sorona, including being responsible for developing multiple ink projects, serving as a Project Lead for Quality Improvement and a Technical Leader. A design direction I'd like to explore is: Compostable polyester fabric derived from renewable resources. A fabric I'm obsessed with right now is: All types of stretch fabrics made from spandex-free tech- nology. Stretch is no longer just in activewear. It's so predominant these days in everything from denims to casual wear to formal wear. We are always exploring the use of Sorona stretch yarns in different fabrics to obtain stretch that is long lasting and environmentally sustainable. My fondest clothing memory from childhood is: A traditional Indian saree with great drape, intricate design and embroidery. It's six meters long and offers great deal of flexibility in fabric design from yarn selection either natural/ synthetic, woven fabric construction from georgette, chiffon, plain. Beyond that there is the artwork in the form of print or just dyed in a plain color, and then further value addition in the form of embroidery to stone work ranging from decorative stones, precious stones and Swarovski crystals. Creativity from an entire textile supply chain can literally come alive in a single saree. I define "performance" as: Surpassing my own expectations. I can't work unless I have: Had a strong coffee and a long run! My design pet peeve is: Design elements that do not take into account environmental impact from cradle to grave. This is how I describe my creative process in 10 words or less: Surrounding myself with smart and creative people from diverse backgrounds. My best ideas derive from: Nature. There are millions of years of evolution at work and a lot to learn. From strength of spider silk to waterproof effects seen in leaves. The book currently on my nightstand is: Born to Run by Christopher McDougall. COLLEEN KELLER Special Projects Director Outdoor Voices Keller graduated from Cornell, where she studied Fiber Science and Apparel Design. For the past decade, she has specialized in devel- opment and production for start-up apparel and acces- sory companies. She has helped launch a wide range of products, from 100 percent Cashmere intarsia sweaters hand-knit in Peru to colorful canvas children's backpacks produced in China. Past clients include Tanya Taylor, State Bags, ACB Home, LemLem and more. A design direction I'd like to explore is: Jacquard knits in abstract patterns. I love the idea of a print becoming the fabric itself and how you can experiment with using both sides interchangeably. A fabric I'm obsessed with right now is: Our studio fabric, Free Form. It's mossed on one side and has just the right amount of stretch, thanks to a blend of polyester and spandex. It's super soft and flexible, making it the perfect fabric for activities that require unrestricted movement, like yoga, barre, and Pilates. My fondest clothing memory from childhood is: A matching Puma workout set I got in middle school. It had reversible shorts that were turquoise and red and came with a turquoise tee. My mom got it for me for tennis practice, but it quickly became my favorite outfit that I wore ALL the time. My tech essential is: Slack! The Outdoor Voices team uses it for a lot of day-to-day communica- tion. It's a necessary part of my professional life, and somehow manages to make work more fun. I define "performance" as: Fabric that enhances comfort in all situations - whether that's being able to bend with a bit more freedom, stink a little less after a heavy sweat session, or stay dry during a Texas downpour. A product design I'm most proud of is: Our French Terry that we use for Team OV sweatshirts. It took us a while to nail the weight we wanted, while maintaining the right look. Making this fabric requires special machinery that not many mills have anymore. On top of that, we produce the fabric domestically in LA and it's 100 percent cotton, so all said it's a big win! My design pet peeve is: Mercury in retrograde. Nothing kills creativity more quickly than when I'm working and my computer starts running slower than a herd of turtles (or whatever that saying is). A textile I wish I had invented is: Silk - it's one of the oldest fibers known to man and still so relevant. Imagine living in the time it was invented: 3000 BC! This is how I describe my creative process in 10 words or less: Research driven, iterative, sometimes spontaneous and always hands on. My best ideas derive from: Having a problem and needing to find a solution to fix it. My favorite city in the world to shop is: Copenhagen. The Danes know how to design everything – clothes, food, and furniture. The book currently on my nightstand is: Haute Bohemians by photographer Miguel Flores-Vianna. DEBBIE BAER Creative Director/ Co-Founder The Willary Baer created The Willary to outfit do-it-all women to live, work and play with style, comfort and ease. She was a costume designer for 15 years and previously designed kid's clothes for Nike SB and Levi's. A design direction I'd like to explore is: Clothes that can be adjusted for weight gain/loss or bloating but still look sleek and professional. A fabric I'm obsessed with right now is: Boiled wool. I'm always looking for ways to complement our tech fabrics with pieces that have a more natural hand feel. The hefty folds and substan- tial weight of boiled wool hits the right notes. My fondest clothing memory from childhood is: It's more of a fiber memory, actually. My grandma had thick ochre wool carpeting in her apart- ment when I was a kid and I was obsessed with the feel and smell of it and how it dampened noises. It was super plush, really comforting and likely inspired my obsession with wool. My tech essential is: Water resistance + breath- ability. When it rains and I'm the only one not sitting around in waterlogged jeans I want to hand every woman near me a business card. I define "performance" as: Elements that serve, support and enrich the wearer's daily experience. A product design I'm most proud of is: Well- placed and functioning pockets in women's clothing. No one wants the extra bulk of stuff in their pockets, especially around their waist/hip area but everyone loves the convenience and utility of pockets. Figuring out smart & useful yet super subtle or creatively hidden places to put them is a fun design game to play. I can't work unless I have: Fizzy water. My design pet peeve is: Fake or too-small-to- be-useful pockets. This is how I describe my creative process in 10 words or less: Start simple. Get obsessed and go nuts. Simplify again. My best ideas derive from: Long walks and not checking email every 5 minutes. The book currently on my nightstand is: A line a day 5-year diary. O 2 0 7 1 THE TRENDSETTERS

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