Textile Insight

IN THE STUDIO | HOSIERY HITECH TOES TODAY, CONSUMERS EXPECT A LOT FROM THEIR SOCKS. WHILE ONCE considered an add-on, hosiery has become an essential accessory thanks to a ramp-up of performance, function and fabric features. With higher price tags and quality guarantees, hosiery is now a category consumers invest in. Heightened in the consumer mindset, brands are pushing boundaries in design, technology and environmental conservation. Here are some of the game-changing advances that Textile Insight sees happening in the marketplace. Marketable Machinery For its new Curated Sock collection, Smartwool is unveiling a new 360- degree printing process that "fully saturates the wool fibers to create a vibrant, more resilient coloring," according to the firm. Ten years in the making, the process allows for printing on wool, which normally can't be done with sublimation (applying heat-transfer dyes to the surface of socks) due to the extreme amount of heat that can damage the wool fiber. In addition to being more labor-intense, sublimation is also limiting because one side of a sock needs to be done at a time, leaving unpleasant lines on socks. "Here we print on a tube and on the actual sock, which is dimensional," said Smartwool director of development for socks, John Ramsey. With Smartwool's process, color does not fade or bleed. "You can print virtually on anything with this technology," according to Ramsey, including pictures from a smart phone. While still early in the making, Ramsey envisions the technology eventually becoming portable for on-the-spot sock personalization. The firm has future plans to expand into more outdoor and sport-driven custom collections. Crowd-sourced Crews Zensah marketing director, Alberto Benarroch, is getting positive feedback on his limited-edition products. "With existing options in the market not always focused on performance, we saw an opportunity for a product that features flashy designs and top-of-the-line technology," he said. Crowdsourcing and engaging customers in the design process has been beneficial for the brand. When planning for its next designs, the Zensah team brainstorms at the office, while simultaneously sending out requests for ideas to ambassadors and frequent customers. Tying in trends, designers then mock up options that are posted on social media for a vote; The winner is selected by the brand's followers. One of the most popular products is the Tropical sock and leg sleeve. "The ability to go to market quickly has also allowed us to pursue more event-driven themes (likes holidays or races)," the exec said. For 2018, Benarroch would like to do more collaboration with other brands and organizations, like the one Zensah did with Beyond Type 1, a non-profit that helps those living with Type 1 diabetes. Environmental Ethos Wigwam recently partnered with outdoor firm Cotopaxi to launch their Libre sock, which uses an innovative blend of llama fiber. Beyond being a naturally hypoallergenic, ultra-soft and odor-resistant fiber, llama can be sourced with minimal effects on the environment. The fiber is a revenue stream for thousands of families in the Andes. In the Libre, "llama is com- bined with nylon to boost the llama yarn's overall strength and stretch capacity," according to Luke Otten, marketing communication manager for Wigwam. A polyester blend called Hydrotec is used in the heel, toe and arch to wick moisture and keep the foot dry. In November, Wigwam celebrated the one-year anniversary of its first recycling center, which is located within the firm's existing manufacturing plant in Sheboygan, WI. "During the knitting and finishing process, if we find socks that do not meet our quality standards but can still be used to help keep the feet warm of people in need, we gather those socks, sort them, pair them and box them up," commented Otten. Since opening the recycling center, the company has sorted, inspected, paired and re-paired over 32,000 pair of socks. Wigwam has collected a little over 16,000 pounds of discarded yarn, according to Otten, which Wigwam will eventually send to Martex Inc. to be recycled and spun into new yarn, bedding fill and home furnishings. This is all a part of Wigwam's "No Fiber Left Behind" campaign to reduce and eliminate textile waste. O Wigwam Socks from its Recycling Center Beyond Type 1 - Power Up Socks by Zensah Smartwool's Spring 18 Curated Sock Collection Cotopaxi x Wigwam Libre Socks textileinsight.com January/February 2018 ~ Textile Insight • 39 BY SUZANNE BLECHER

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