Textile Insight

IN THE MARKET | EURO REPORT Suppliers are All Aboard An Unstoppable Train of Eco Developments Accelerates Rapidly. By Louisa Smith Cotton's biodegradable feature is a key factor to the reduction of landfill. rom Premiere Vision to Interfiliere, ISPO Textrends to Munich Fabric Start, the abundance of sustainable achievements was rampant throughout the Fall shows. Schoeller, celebrating its 150th anniversary, champions sustainability with new textiles and technologies including upcycled products with Econyl yarns and the PFC-free ecorepel Bio sustainable water repellent finish. The Econyl Reclaiming Program of Aquafil reduces global waste by collecting recyclable materials from landfill and oceans and returning them into the production cycle. FENC (Far Eastern New Century), recycler for the Parley project, has introduced a new process. FENC TopGreen rTEX is able to both divert textile waste from landfill to effectively cut off ecological damage at the source, meet the high-performance demands of global brand houses all while decreasing net carbon footprint. FENC also launched its first waterless dyed nylon, pioneered by the use of supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) in place of traditional water dyeing. Zero water usage, reduced dye time, reduced energy use, and uniquely, zero compromises on the hand feel that would be expected of nylon. This is an interesting innovation on the nylon front, with water-free dyeing featuring at FENC in polyester as a staple. The company We Are SpinDye has developed a range of 1,950 colors. Not only does this ensure consistency order after order, due to the dyestuff being applied before virgin and recycled polyester extrusion, but it also offers significant water savings compared to conventional polyester dyeing, as well as color control and reduced waste. Eco Efforts Across the Board For recycled plastics, traceability is key. Stories on the textile scene highlight where recycled polyester is a no-go, concerning textile mills buying virgin plastic bottles to crush and create recycled polyester without any pre- consumer use. This is not sustainability, and brands are keen to work with accredited recycled synthetic suppliers to ensure full traceability of recycled polyester products. Plastic cleaned from the ocean is favored on the recycled front. Adidas has led the way teaming with Parley for the Oceans, recently announcing that its Parley range of shoes sold over one million pairs in 2017. Seaqual, since its launch two years ago, has become a much sought-after partner by textile mills. A Sampaio's collection teamed Seaqual Fiber with organic merino wool. Sofileta, an early follower of Seaqual Fiber has developed a fine gauge knit of 74 percent Seaqual FIber and 26 percent eco-friendly elastomer. (For more on Seaqual see page 22) Microfiber pollution is now the media's "nom de guerre" in the textile industry. Patagonia has introduced the Guppy bag to block microfiber release at laundry into the water system. But suppliers are also addressing the pollution problem with by advancing anti-odor and PFC-free membrane finishes for longer wearability and reduced laundering. Tintex has developed a smart alternative with its responsible finishing process. Naturally Clean takes a cost-effective modern approach that eliminates aggressive treatments and optimizes clean surfaces, vivid colors, and beautifully smooth-to-the-touch feel. Naturally Clean uses Novozymes technology, a leader in biological solutions, and Beyond Surface Technologies AG chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are Oeko-Tex and soon bluesign certified, thus eliminating harmful substances. But it's not all about synthetics — cellulosics are also shouting out about sustainability. Suppliers are pushing the biodegradable elements as well as highlighting performance with a luxury aspect. Naia from Eastman, for example, is gaining ground, only two years in the market. F 16 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2018 textileinsight.com For recycled plastics, traceability is key.

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