Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaledition.com/i/1045322
DENIM Making Mainstream Denim Legendary Labels Look to Gain as Interest in Jeggings and Premium Styles Wanes. By Suzanne Blecher W ith a return to nostalgia and recent vintage (as opposed to archival vintage), stalwart brands are on the move. "After years of experiencing the heritage trend, where brands embraced authenticity and delved into their archives, now the trend is shifting toward a more personal narrative where consumers are exploring their own memories and wardrobes when it comes to jeans," explained Amy Leverton, denim consultant and author of "Denim Dudes." While 2010 onward nodded to heritage and workwear, today's denim contains the essence of more recent nostalgia — say the 1970s, 80s and 90s — with a sportswear twist. Now, consumers are looking for a more personal connection. "This is why we've seen the emergence of 'dad dressing,' normcore (unremarkable or unfashionable casual clothes) and gorpcore (normcore for the outdoors): they draw from the heritage trend but in a more ironic, personal way than say a 1940s miner," noted Leverton. Streetwear is making an impact (also in a 90s sort of way), lead- ing to baggier fits. Comfort is also important, as is athleisure's influence. According to The NPD Group, athleisure — namely the triad of function, fashion and comfort — has boosted denim sales as of late. Women's jeans witnessed a nine percent increase in sales for the year ending July 2018 compared to a year ago, while the $16.4 billion U.S. jeans market grew five percent overall during the same time period. Skinny still accounts for the bulk (nearly 40 percent of women's jean sales), but "new mate- rials have added stretch and comfort while still looking like jeans versus leggings, a stretch pant- denim hybrid," according to the research firm. High- waisted, straight-leg, cropped flares, ultra-cuff and denim sweatpants are gaining popularity. This summer, Lee launched the Body Optix collection which includes both high rise and midrise skinnies using "unique patterns created by nano laser technology to shade and contour the denim, creating 360 degree enhancement of the female body," commented Heather Caldwell, brand manager — female, VF Jeanswear. The jeans are constructed with strategic seams and pocket placement. Lee partnered with high fashion 34 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2018 textileinsight.com "I like to believe, and so do most consumers, that jeans are meant to be cherished, and are not disposable fashion." Vivian Rivette, Wrangler TRENDSETTERS 2018 Wrangler Heritage Jean, Carpenter Jacket, High Rise Skinny and Kabel Sweatshirt.