Textile Insight

IN THE MARKET | FOOTWEAR / FDRA SUMMIT Fabric First 14 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2018 textileinsight.com Digging Deep into Emerging Developments in Shoe Design & Direction. By Emily Walzer hese days, as textiles go, so goes footwear. The popularity of knit uppers is fueling footwear tech- nologies and fiber developments that are fabric-centric with a strong focus on sustainability. Presentations at the recent Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America (FDRA) conference held at NC State's College of Textiles campus in Raleigh, NC, reflected this eco-textile theme during a gathering that brought together a variety of footwear execs and textile experts. Throughout the jam-packed two-day event, attendees discussed how best to implement the latest tech and industry trends in a marketplace that increasingly seeks heightened environmental and social responsibility while demand- ing shorter lead times. From the get go, textiles took center stage. The trend of knit uppers is strong, according to Matt Priest, executive director, FDRA. "Whether we're at work, church, brunch, whatever, we're all wearing knit footwear," said Priest, who presided over the Footwear Materials & Innovation Summit that attracted more than 100 professionals from leading brands such as Nike, Toms, Target, Walmart, Columbia, Red Wing, HH Brown, Caleres and Deckers among others. It appears knits are here to stay. Tom White, senior director material innovation at Under Armour, mentioned how knit construction solves many problems related to breathability and levels of flexibility, for example, while Jon Ervin, footwear product specialist for Avery Denison commented, "Even if consumers don't know what the material benefits are, they understand what good fit feels like." Joanne Stetson, director of materials at Ariat, explained that while leather remains a material mainstay for Ariat, the brand has recently introduced mesh athletic-style sneakers. "We're developing knit styles, but for us, offering something with eye appeal is more important than what the technology is about." All three remarked on the importance of sustainability today. Said Ervin, "A few years ago there was no traction around recycled poly, for example. Now it is full on. I believe there is also a push toward natu- ral fibers – like wool, and sustainable solutions." Leather suppliers con- ceded the popularity of knits. "Consumers want to eat beef, but not wear it," said Jeff Dougherty, director of materials, Wolverine Worldwide. He reported growth in herd size, and decreasing leather prices. Per hide, prices are down to 52 cents from a high of just under a dollar in five years ago. He also noted a move toward greater traceability in the leather industry, such as using new DNA technology to allow for "from slaughter to product" tracking. Brands and retailers realize they need to be onboard with sustainable practices and products as consumer interest in eco expands and regulations around the world tighten. And with the current knit revolution, its also clear that sustainability measures go hand in hand with modern textile development. Knitting for the Next Generation of Footwear "Radical change is coming," said Dr. Andre West, depart- ment of Textile & Apparel, Technology & Management at NC State College of Textiles. He highlighted new 4D technology that builds in more functionality, whole gar- ment knitting with warp knits for shaping footwear, and new machinery coming to market as factors in knitting production impacting design and development. He also asserted that "socks will be the shoes of the future" based on sophisticated knitting machine technolo- gies that align with an on-demand market. "Sock patterns could create shoes in a matter of seven to eight minutes," said West. "Sock people see this as an area for them." West is keen on warp knits for footwear construc- tion offering strength, durability and breathability with whole garment knitting for warp knits providing speed of production. He cited Highland Industries, Apex Mills and Gehring Textiles as domestic mills with warp knit T Chris Hillyer, innovation director and designer, Deckers, waves good-bye to traditional color cards as new digital resources become available. TAKEAWAYS Footwear Materials & Innovation Summit Digital Resources High-tech photography from XRITE to create more 3D-like textile images online. New online database The Material Exchange speeds sourcing efficiencies replacing physical samples and color cards to find fabrics. New software from Roman CAD/Strategies allows "from fashion to factory" in a flash. Natural Fibers Natural rubber for use in foams Hemp textile research ramping up A push for "renewable" resources more than "recycle-able" solutions Packaging How to measure packaging costs and design a system for operational savings. Sustainable Packaging Coalition as a resource Chemicals Water-based tech a high priority Radical change is coming. Dr. Andre West, department of Textile & Apparel, Technology & Management at NC State College of Textiles.

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