Textile Insight

SUPPLY CHAIN | EMERGING MODELS Local-for-Local Manufacturing Coming to a Market Near You. s textile supply chains continue to adjust to market shifts, closer-to-source manufacturing of customized product delivered to customer doorsteps in a flash is gaining ground in the textile industry. The advantages of this emerging model include inventory savings, waste reduction and sustainable solutions, not to mention the ability to create product that satisfies today's consumers in terms of design, aesthetics and fit needs. Responsiveness is key these days as the business world prioritizes speed and convenience. The shorter lead times and improved customer service of a local-for-local approach is just the ticket. In addition, local-to- local manufacturing aligns with new industry thinking about curbing over production. "What we're seeing are more startups and brands focused on loyal tribes of consumers with a particular interest," said Ed Gribbin, an apparel/textile industry veteran, who describes the current trend as "product made to order, made locally and not over-produced." He suggests that going forward production will take place all around us. Closer-to-source manufacturing was highlighted as a top trend for 2019 in a recent webinar on important issues and industry innovation. Sponsored by the company Inspectorio in association with PI Apparel, Inspectorio co-founder Fernando Moncayo Castillo served as moderator of a discus- sion led by Gribbin, who outlined industry trends and answered questions from listeners. Inspectorio, a software-as-a-service company based in Minneapolis, MN, specializes in machine learning to make autonomous systems for monitoring quality and compliance. Local-for-local, on demand manufacturing is reaching a tipping point. Gribbin noted that there has been significant development in the past year. "How this impacts supply chains in the years ahead is going to be very interesting," said Gribbin, whose new venture, Gribbin Strategic LLC, focuses on growth strategy and operational efficiency in supply chain product development. A webinar listener asked how the local-for-local trend is impacting Asian factories. "We may not see it coming, but the end of the mass market is upon us," Gribbin responded. "We are moving away from markets of mil- lions and millions of people into millions and millions of markets of few. That has huge impact on factories in Asia; they will produce product, but more will produce for local markets." Gribbon cited recent stats from the AAFA that show that while China is still the largest supplier, it is exporting less, with numbers dropping in recent years. "Vietnam and Bangladesh numbers are up, but overall we are getting away from huge orders to smaller lots that are more frequent," said Gribbin, adding, "Smart vendors already see it coming." Change at the Micro(factory) Level Gribbin, who held high-level posts at Alvanon for 20 years, singled out a handful of companies he has come in contact with lately that are inno- vating the local-for-local model, and serve as good examples of how the supply chain dynamic is changing. These include OnPoint Manufacturing, Nextwave, Ministry of Supply, ShareCloth and Fame and Partners. Each has a slightly different approach to how they manage inventory and other services but the underlying defining factor is a more responsive model and targeted approach to sourcing. Recently Gerber Technology announced a partnership with OnPoint Manufacturing, based in Florence, AL and PAAT, Inc., out of Nashville, TN in the launch of FashionTech Platform 1.0. The new venture will operate, and offer the benefits of, a demand-gener- ated microfactory. This "purchase-activated model" includes software, equipment and con- sulting with a digitally integrated e-commerce and on-demand design to print, cut and sew. According to a statement from Gerber, FashionTech Platform 1.0 eliminates costly inventory and re-defines just-in-time manu- facturing, so production adjusts as demands fluctuate – allowing products to be produced more efficiently and sold at full retail price without heavy discounting. "We have been working with Gerber for several years now," said J. Kirby Best, chair- man of OnPoint Manufacturing and PAAT. "We are continually refining our approach to mass customization and we believe adding Gerber's full suite of software and automated cutting systems will help us to dramatically improve our speed and efficiency." OnPoint Manufacturing (OPM) special- izes in purchase-activated on-demand mass customization of apparel. Its factory model automates and integrates almost every aspect of the manufacturing process from order entry to delivery. l Made Today, Delivered Tomorrow 48 • Textile Insight ~ November/December 2018 textileinsight.com A COMPANIES TO WATCH Nextwave, Buford, GA, is the lead integrator for an On-Demand Apparel MicroFactory that can take a 3D virtual sample and produce it in real time. www.nextwavems.com ShareCloth helps online apparel retailers sell prior to manufacturing as a means of guarding against traditional risks inherent in the fashion business. www.sharecloth.com Fame and Partners is a vertically integrated online fashion retailer, with offices in Los Angeles and Sydney, focused on customizable, made-to-order fashion, keen on sustainability with a near zero- waste process. www.fameandpartners.com

• Cover