Textile Insight

IN THE STUDIO | FABRICATIONS Cozy Comebacks C oncept III Founder David Parkes saw his first Sherpa in 1963. He started his career at pile and faux fur maker Borg in the UK before crossing the pond to Malden Mills in 1976 to develop and merchan- dise the fabric (along with other sliver knits). At the time, "the demand was super-high and the margins were super-high" for Sherpa, he said. In the 1980s, the fabric took a backseat to polar fleece, only to have started gaining more traction over the last two-to-three years. "I think Sherpa is having a resurgence because the sliver knit machine is extremely versatile," explained Parkes, adding, "It can offer many different fabrications because you are dictating to each stitch which fiber type will be blown into it." Sherpa, or faux shearling, is either 100 percent polyester or a blend of polyester and acrylic. Wool can also be introduced into the mix. As the yarn forms a jersey stitch, fiber is blown into the stitch to present a high pile fabric. It is a very practical fabric and hard wearing, with abrasion resistance and a good warmth value. Toad&Co's Sherpa reinterpretation takes on a 1970s campy, feel-good vibe. "It's a look back to simpler times that align with the free spirit of get- ting out and experiencing life on the trail under the open sky," said Kyle Boettcher, VP design/ merchandising/supply. The Telluride Sherpa Jacket mixes fashion and outdoor in a reversible number with either an on-trend Sherpa exterior or func- tional DWR face. "You can dress it up, down, or wear it on the trail," commented Boettcher. The brand's Sherpa is derived from wool (along with polyester and nylon), carrying the properties of that original performance fabric. A Hutton Sherpa Jacket contains 80 percent recycled polyester. It's a touch of 70s, complemented by a hint of 90s, which are currently playing off each other in the marketplace. Calming Corduroy A little over 10 years ago, during the financial crisis, men's corduroy blazers on the runway mimicked the U.S.-manufactured, mass-produced variety popular with the working class in the late 1800s during the Long Depression. Corduroy's vertical cut-pile stripes (formed by an extra system of filling yarns in the fabric) make for a workhorse – a perfect fit for college students and beatniks in the 1960s. In the late 1970s and 80s, preppy-types and surfers caught on to the campy cloth, only to have the fabric return in '90s grunge, paired with flannel shirts. Fall 2019's corduroy from prAna is less fussy. prAna design director, Andrea Cirque-Austin said it "evokes a nostalgic feeling that is comforting in this fast-moving world." Employed as an alterna- tive to denim, corduroy brings a fancy feel to casualwear. For men, designers created a yarn dye plaid in corduroy for shirtings. For women, a washed-down pigment look was used in several styles to create a "dimensional effect that gives these easy-wearing styles personal- ity," according to the exec. Corduroy is sprinkled throughout the prAna women's line in a shirting dress, skirt, shrunken trucker jacket and slim leg pants. Meanwhile, Toad&Co's corduroy is breath- able, long lasting and contains three percent stretch, making it incredibly wearable. "We can now do trend silhouettes whereas in the past, you had to textileinsight.com January/February 2019 ~ Textile Insight • 37 Laid-back comfort is the word for Fall '19, with soft, snuggly looks proliferating. Vintage fabrications, in particular Sherpa, corduroy and handcrafted sweaters, are re-emerging in a variety of looks slated for the season ahead. Retro Returns with Modern Appeal

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