Textile Insight

IN THE MARKET | OR SNOW SHOW PREVIEW Weather Wizardry textileinsight.com New Year, New Advances and New Levels of Comfort for the Cold. orget the tweaks and the updates and the enhance- ments, this season in textiles is all about the bold statement; "It's a new frontier," states PrimaLoft's CEO Mike Joyce referring to the company's breakthrough in biodegrad- ability. "It's a new dimension of defining durability," says Cordura's global marketing manager Cindy McNaull talk- ing about the company's launch of a knit midlayer. The North Face tags its latest development as "the future of breathable-waterproof outerwear." Even the juxtaposition of the conventional "waterproof/breathable" signals a new take on textile tech going forward. Industry wide, suppliers are ushering in an era that goes beyond iteration to true innovation. Sustainability contin- ues to be a main driver, and efforts in eco performance have revved up considerably recently as climate change forecasts and microplastics pollution become increasingly important international issues. Environmental and social responsibility will continue to be directional in terms of development from fiber to finished product; Eco is now a central element in every textile trend discussion. However, what sets this season apart is the broader scope of innovation. Entire categories are moving ahead. "Knit technology is definitely evolving," com- ments Jay Hertwig, VP global branding, Unifi. Excitement around knits is high across the board. Laminates are also generating buzz. Functional fabrications have distinguished the outdoor industry since its inception; based on the latest developments, textiles look to be shaping the performance world for seasons to come. Performance Packed The new FutureLight technology from The North Face represents a step up in perfor- mance outerwear offering more comfort in a wider range of conditions and also gives gravitas to the concept of textile "tunability." The microporous waterproof technology, developed using a nanospinning process, offers the ability to adapt and optimize the breathability, stretch and texture of any garment depending on the activity or environ- ment. The company states, "The material is a tunable textile, meaning the brand's design- ers can dial up breathability in garments for aerobic pursuits or increase rain protection for harsh wet climates and vice versa." Going forward, TNF plans to apply tunability across product categories. Other textile producers, have introduced the idea of "tuning," however, with FutureLight, the concept may become more mainstream, and welcomed in a consumer market increasingly keen on customization and products designed to adapt to specific individual needs. In the field of footwear laminates, eVent's new Dvdry Insulated product adds a cold-weather option to the com- pany's suite of footwear products. The laminate features eVent's Direct Venting (DV) air permeable technology -- microscopic pores vent body heat and sweat through a 100 percent waterproof membrane. The entirely U.S-made four-layer laminate combines a 200-, 400- or 600- gram insulated layer with the eVent membrane to provide year- round, all-weather waterproofness. Knit Know How Unifi's new, engineered stretch product is a knit fabric with spandex-like performance -- minus the spandex. Better moisture management, longer garment life, and an eco advantage are key benefits associated with the product. "Brands are looking to boost performance and comfort without properties associated with spandex, like degrada- tion over time and holding moisture," explains Hertwig, who highlights opportunities for the engineered stretch product in performance wear and denim. Unifi will also launch a new anti-static technology in Denver. Cordura will also put a spotlight on knits. "Knits are now being developed to be more durable, reducing snagging and pilling, as well being offered in lightweight varieties. You want a knit to perform like a woven, but with comfort and "coziness" of a knit," explains Cordura's McNaull. Originally targeted as next-to-skin and yoga wear applica- tions, Cordura 4Ever knits will debut as a midlayer for Fall '19, with Marmot an early adopter, featuring the fabric with DWR in a softshell fleece. "Durable knits advances a new way of thinking about Cordura," McNaull states. Two new knits, from Yoonia mill, were selected as ISPO Textrends winners, and will be on display at the Cordura booth along with product from BlackYak and Beyond Clothing. Eco Endeavors On the heels of its PrimaLoft Bio insulation launch in November, the company comes to Denver with a new PrimaLoft Bio Performance Fabric, a 100 percent recycled biodegradable synthetic fabric. PrimaLoft is targeting Fall 2020 for consumer availability of both iterations of its bio- degradable products. "With this advancement, a fabric garment may now be completely returned to nature," explains Joyce. "As we drive this approach, we will be leading the way towards significantly lessening the environmental impact of the textile industry." (See Technology story, Page 32, for more details.) l F What sets this season apart is the broad scope of innovation; entire categories are moving ahead. Testing The North Face FutureLight technology.

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