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IN THE MARKET | OUTDOOR RETAILER SUMMER MARKET Tech and Trends Reflect Industry Commitment to Responsible Make. By Emily Walzer A Strong Showing 6 • Textile Insight ~ July/August 2019 textileinsight.com he flag the outdoor industry has planted for environmental responsibility in recent years rose to new heights at Outdoor Retailer Summer Market last month in Denver. The textile sector is certainly doing its part; recycled polyester and nylon are in every line with innovation around biodegradable product and bio-based-solutions scaling up rapidly. Throughout the June gathering staged at the Colorado Convention Center, sustainability ruled the day, and the community's focus on advancing planet positive product has come to define the direction of outdoor going forward. The latest tech offerings at ORSM19 hit a wide range of performance targets ranging from next to skin to outerwear. Robust textiles that feature longevity are key for the season ahead. This trend is an outgrowth of a societal shift from binging on fast fashion to conscious consumption that favors responsibly made products. Hyosung's new high-performance creora ActiFit spandex, designed to keep pace with endurance athletes and the conditions they encounter — whether it be salt water, intense sun or a rocky crag — is defined by durability, UV and chlorine resistance, and superior recovery. Patagonia, in a bold move, has done away with 2.5 layer construction all together and rebuilt its classic Torrentshell line explaining that the new three- layer shell for Spring 20 "is more comfortable, durable and built to last longer than ever before." Suppliers also see value in collaborations. Sorona continues its partnership with Cordura showcasing fabric by ChiaHer in a variety of looks; additionally Sorona introduces three insulation products with Youngone as part of a collab with Repreve. Gore ventures into warm weather base layer via development with Under Armour. The new lightweight blend of 90 percent poly /10 percent ePTFE creates a super fast wicking t-shirt material. Exploring new ground in biomimicry, PrimaLoft NEXT debuts as an innovative textile platform that combines the thermal advantages of insulation with the versatility of fabric. Schoeller elevates thermo-regulation tech with its new iLoad Comfort Bio that relies on microcapsules to balance out temperature fluctuations. The Swiss firm's new aerobrane e-spinning breathable membrane offers optimal weather protection. Technology around coloration continues. Solution dye methods have risen in popularity of late based on water savings and efforts to expand color range. Newcomer Chromuch, from parent company Nan Ya Plastics, takes things up a notch. Its branded ChromShield Technology is a water free solution dye method with fibers made of recycled PET bottles available in stock for better lead times and low MOQ. Nature Meets Function Cultural trends like wellness festivals, mindful-fitness programs and doctor prescribed "outdoor therapy" are reflected in the Industry's healthy, back to nature outlook. Within textiles, the resurgence of natural fibers continues for the season ahead with collections featuring offerings of cottons, Tencel, lightweight summer wools, alpaca, and assorted blends. But hemp cornered the market as the attention-getter at Summer Market. The good news is that hemp offers plenty of opportunities. Missing, however, is the ability to process hemp domestically – specifically, textile grade hemp fiber. Once this essential step is developed, execs say, the viability of a sustainable U.S. based hemp supply chain comes into focus. "Ultimately this will result in a win for farmers, a win for the environment and win for outdoor community and consumers" said David Petri, founder, Cynosura Consulting, who moderated an excellent panel discussion on the topic. A contingent of growers and textile execs are keen on constructing a domestic value chain that includes the ability for hemp to be spun into yarns and blended with cotton or other fibers. "This will give way to a new generation of natural fiber technical textiles," explained Tom McCall, innovation director at Cap Yarns, and a 40-year veteran of the textile business. Fun Fabrics, Fun Show Suppliers showcased an array of appealing textile looks for warm-weather wear. Collections with names like "Play" and "Joy" gave way to a fun in the sun attitude with ranges that exuded shine, shimmer, and unique visual effects. Klinger Asia previewed an assortment of fabrics with contemporary flair. Seersucker with stretch, for example, along with linen-y qualities for outdoor and textured dimensional knits in likeable color combinations. Schoeller debuted Spring '21 collections that expressed a playful side with jacquard looks, eye-catchingly colorful reflectives, and unique one-of-a-kind pieces. The cheery fabrications aligned with the upbeat, happy vibe that permeated OR Summer Market. Textile suppliers gave the Show two thumbs up. Aisle traffic was steady over the course of the conference and the earlier show date and shortened timeframe to three days was accepted as the new norm. The question is whether the textile community is willing to make the trek to Denver yet again in November, as execs continue to grapple with the three-show schedule. l T Klingler Asia seersucker with stretch. Klingler Asia textured dimensional knits. Unique looks from Schoeller Textil.