Textile Insight

A Round Up of the Latest Developments in Sustainable Solutions. inding solutions to the problem of combating ocean and waterway pollution from textiles just got a little easier thanks to a recent announcement from the American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists (AATCC) about a new test method focused on fiber fragmentation. We caught up with AATCC executive director Diana Wyman at the recent Techtextil North America show and asked the significance of the new TM212-2021 test method. Here's what she had to say: "Terminology is also critically important. We are accus- tomed to hearing about 'microfibers' in the mass media, but this term has a very different meaning in the textile world. Surprisingly, there was no clear definition for the ultra-fine fibers frequently used for cleaning cloths, and no alternate terminology for the broken bits of fiber that come off clothing in the laundry. AATCC TM212 provides formal definitions for both 'microfiber' and 'fiber fragment' to reduce confusion and frustration." How does this new standard help brands? "Information is power. Without data, brands don't know if they have a problem with fiber fragments; they can't select fabric with less shedding propensity and they can't measure improvement over time. The new standard allows brands to collect meaningful data and make choices that take fiber fragment pollution into consideration. The Microfibre Consortium (TMC) is taking this a step further by compiling data from numerous organizations in hopes of identifying trends that may inform fabric production and selection in the future." (The Microfibre Consortium, a UK-based organization has recently announced its 2030 Commitment and Roadmap, which will be the first to globally align the topic of microfibers against a collaborative, target based and accountable roadmap.) "As various government entities look to reduce fiber fragments in the environment, brands can point to AATCC TM212 as a voluntary effort to measure and control frag- ments. This could mean less regulation or more relevant targets in place of arbitrary restrictions and labeling of fabrics presumed to be problematic." What impact can a standard like this have on tackling the problem of microfiber shedding? "Quantifying a problem is an important first step in finding an answer. Being able to consistently and reliably measure the relative shedding propensity of fabrics allows manufacturers and consumers to make more informed decisions. There is so much more we have to learn about this issue, but it has been amazing to see how quickly and enthusiastically the textile industry came together to start the work. Even before the standard was published, the development process brought together brilliant and passionate individuals from multiple disciplines. Those connections and conversations will undoubtedly lead to other important achievements in tackling the problem."l Spinnova Partners with The North Face Global textile material demand is increasing at a rapid speed and estimated to be as high as 146 million tons an- nually by 2030. A new partnership between sustainable textile material company Spinnova and The North Face aims to do something about the situation. The compa- nies have agreed to develop new, sustainable, high-per- formance textiles for the outdoor apparel category. This starts a journey towards commercializing sustainable products using Spinnova materials and access to the first commercial volumes of Spinnova fiber. Spinnova, based in Finland, developed a breakthrough technology for making textile fibers out of wood or waste, such as leather, textile or food waste. Spinnova fiber is produced without harmful chemicals, with minimal water usage and with minimal CO 2 emissions. The product does not contain microplastic and is 100 percent circular. Spinnova's long term business targets include to reach F IN THE MARKET | ECO UPDATE AATCC Launches Test Method 11 • Textile Insight ~ September/October 2021 textileinsight.com The new test method gives clarity to a complex issue. Spinnova brings eco-material expertise to active/outdoor market. "The AATCC method combines the best information and data currently available on fiber fragments in laundering and makes it available to everyone worldwide." Diana Wyman, executive director, AATCC

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