Textile Insight

Sustainability, Supply Chain & Shifting Consumer Behavior . By Emily Walzer Microfiber Update Industry takes a significant step for- ward in better understanding, and potentially controlling, microfiber shedding with a new standard from the AATCC developed to provide a means to determine the mass of fiber fragments released in an accelerated laundering setting with a consistent and uniform test method to follow. AATCC TM212 is not limited to man-made fibers, as it can be used to determine the fiber shedding potential of natural fibers and blends. This is the first global test method for quantifying fiber fragment shed- ding. There are several internal methods in use, but they are each a bit different or don't account for all the relevant variables, so it is difficult to compare results across labs. "Because we are dealing with such tiny masses of fiber, any difference in handling can have a significant impact. A truly standardized test is a necessity," explains AATCC executive direc- tor Diana Wyman. This is also the reason AATCC worked so closely with The Microfibre Consortium, Cross-Industry Agreement, and others to ensure all experts were aligned on the technical details from edge finish to filter media. (More details on page 10) l LCAs & Debate about Methane Like sustainability itself, LCAs con- tinue to evolve, and as such serve as a key to advancing eco-responsible business. "Today's LCAs are not the same as 20 years ago, and LCAs won't be the same 20 years from now," states Milliken & Company's Jeff Strahan, director of research, compliance, and sustainability. He offers biogenic carbon as an exam- ple of how LCA methodology has evolved over the past few decades. "Basically, how much credit of soak- ing up carbon dioxide do you get if you grow a plant? The exact num- bers from 20 years ago would not be accepted by an LCA practitio- ner today. In fact, best practice is that an LCA be updated every five years because the databases with the numbers and methodology are constantly changing," comments Strahan. He adds, "A current area of debate relates to gases released from landfill. On paper, landfills have some biodegradation where carbon is degraded into raw materials for microbes to eat. Some methane is produced, and methane is a very powerful greenhouse gas - much more than carbon dioxide. There is debate about how much of this methane really gets captured and how much really gets burned and turned into energy. The math is not settled for this in the LCA com- munity." l Supply Chain Uncertainty Supply chains are taking it on the chin these days. Delays, plant shut- downs and halted operations have ratcheted up delivery problems, as the Delta variant adds another blow to a global supply chain already on the ropes struggling to get back on track. Garment and textile factories have been particularly hard hit, with news reports that estimate one third of Vietnam's facilities have been impacted in recent months. Stress about the holiday deliveries has set in, as shipments are taking longer. (More details on page 32) l New Consumer Behavior Speaking of holidays, four out of 10 people have already cancelled holiday travel plans, and the same percentage of people are already scouting stores for holiday purchases, according to research shared by Ged King, CEO of Sales Factory, who presented during the Southern Textiles Association (STA) Summer Marketing Forum. King says that the combination of shipping delays and the rising cost of consumer goods is reshaping shopping patterns. He expects consumers will begin their holiday buying earlier than usual. And a sales surge in January is also likely as people redeem gift cards and circle back for products still on their holiday wish list. King emphasized that "New, fast, review-driven and self-service" is today's mantra for shoppers. Walmart's recently announced expansion of its last-mile delivery service to other clients in a logistics program called GoLocal exemplifies this trend. Previously Walmart's GoLocal was restricted to delivery of its own products. The new strategy is said to better compete within the world e-commerce dominated by Amazon. Tom Ward, Walmart SVP for last mile deliveries, was quoted as saying that "Walmart envisions a service that could deliver cup- cakes from local bakeries as easily as it could car parts from national retailers." l IN THE MARKET | INDUSTRY UPDATE Hot Topics 7 • Textile Insight ~ September/October 2021 textileinsight.com T here is plenty to talk about this Fall season as the textile community continues to emerge and adapt to a remodeled marketplace. Here are a handful of top-of-mind topics triggering today's buzziest conversations Jeff Strahan

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