Textile Insight

Positive Vibes at Premiere Vision Paris Prove Creativity & Quality Reign. By Louisa Smith aris welcomed predominantly European designers and brands to Premiere Vision (PV), the fabric, trim and yarn exhibition for the fashion industry. Geared towards Spring/Summer 2023, visitor attendance was positive at the February event, but unlike in the past when the RER train from Gare du Nord was packed like sardines, it was the queue for the vaccine QR code that was the busiest experience. With travel restrictions still in place, the show was scaled-down from its pre-lockdown size, with European mills dominating, savor- ing the experience of a unique platform for a change. The mood took one back to pre- global days, when only European mills could exhibit. But with globalization the organiz- ers had no other choice but to open up the show to high quality international mills that met the strict specifications. The best of the Turkish mills were out in force, but can't be deemed direct competitors to the exquisite weaves and creativity, in particular, that the Italians and French offer. Sustainability was mentioned in the trend area, encouraging visitors to take this into consideration, but it wasn't hammered home. Not all fashion mills are pursuing a sustain- able message, as they rely on the fact they use the best yarns, and the creative know- how of European manufacturing, which in itself is sustainable in terms of shipping. This is where the confusion with sustain- ability comes in. Premium caliber attendees aren't going to run a collection with a sus- tainable tag on it. They believe in buying the best and expecting the best, as do their customers. Additionally, creativity is king to these buyers, and sustainability is a less relevant topic, although, this does depend on price points. More "performance" labeling featured in the trend forums, highlighting the benefits of fabrics, both in terms of sustainable attri- butes and functional properties. Functional fabrics, traditionally associated with the outdoors sector, continue to creep into the fashion melee, with mills realizing they have to take the creative aspect up a notch, in order to fit in. The interest in perfor- mance fabrics is running high, especially with the latest collaboration at Milan Fashion Week of Gucci and adidas. Who'd have predicted that collaboration? Sportswear rules, once again a legacy of the lockdown as comfort continues to dominate. Luxe Brands & Retail Must-See It is quite clear who exhibitors of PV are trying to attract: The post-show press release revealed the presence of creme de la creme labels from Dior, Lacoste, Kenzo and Yves Saint Laurent. On the other hand there was not much mention of the big volume global brands attending, although Decathlon did make the list. With the likes of H&M, Primark, C&A and the Inditex group proposing sustainable proj- ects to consumers, albeit a constant supply of recycled polyester, this messaging was likely done to appease consumers following media's interest in throw away fashion. The price point and volume wouldn't be sourced at PV, but it would at the TexWorld show, 20 minutes away. PV trend forums, traditionally renowned for creativity, and works of art in themselves, were subtle this season. Perhaps to help ease us back into the fold? Nonetheless this didn't deter visitors to wind their way round and return to the much loved tactile sourcing. Paris is always a pleasure to visit for Premiere Vision, and the trade show also provides an opportunity to do some retail research. (For the love of business and not pleasure, not!) There is a new must-see locale, La Samaritaine, the large department store established in 1869, now owned by LVMH, the luxury goods group, has reopened after 17 years of restoration to its original Art Deco and Art Nouveau style. IN THE MARKET | EURO REPORT Simply the Best 14 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2022 textileinsight.com Left: Lightweight, super-soft performance ripstop from Lidia (Korea); Graffiti-inspired print from Majoochi NT (Italy) featuring water repellency.

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