Culture Magazine

C H E E S E+ 202 2 culturecheesemag.com 53 Cheese Society Judging and Competition (bad news for Bo Babaki). Are processed products inherently bad for us, or are we just being snobs? Leslie Murray, a registered dietician for the Duke University Health System, says it all depends on your nutritional goals. "Vegan cheese is a processed food," she says, "meaning it contains saturated fat, sodium, preservatives, and color additives." But she notes that plant-based and dairy cheese each have their benefits and downfalls: Vegan cheese is good for those with dairy allergies, but it doesn't do much for the soy- or nut-allergic. And though vegan cheese may be lower in cholesterol, dairy cheese is much higher in protein and calcium. In the end, it's a choice a person must make based on their own needs—and their own ethics. "Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the environmental impacts of animal agriculture, as well as the condition of factory farms," says Schinner. "Younger people, especially Gen Zers, feel empowered to affect change through their food choices." This condition of youth is not unique to 2022, and the vegan movement has failed to go mainstream before—the 1960s picked up where Kellogg and Sinclair left off, but even the free love generation had to grow up eventually. The trick seems to be creating a culture that is not fringe, where vegan products are seen as another option rather than a substitute. Embracing the best of both vegan and dairy could lead us to a sustainable and diversified global food system, the need for which gets louder every day. "I don't think this is a fad that is going away," says Schinner. "It is, in fact, a growing movement globally, and the pace will only pick up." c HOW IT'S MADE Though it varies from maker to maker, here is an outline of how Bo Babaki crafts his bloomy rind Maverick wheels: PHOTO: Tami Seymour | ILLUSTRATION: Nat Hilton MAKING VEGAN CHEESE AT CONSCIOUS CULTURES

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