Culture Magazine

6 culturecheesemag.com C H E E S E+ 202 2 L ucky for turophiles, there are nearly endless ways to enjoy cheese. Depending on the variety, we can chunk or spread it for a quick snack, melt it in a sandwich, or incorporate it into recipes. But, just like gardeners play with plant combinations and painters play with mixing colors, we cheese- obsessed folks play with pairings— which is why we annually devote an entire issue to them. My colleagues and I sometimes wonder: Is there a pairing stone left unturned? The answer is always yes. For the Cheese+ column, we went straight to the source—mongers—who shared their tried-and-true pairings plus a few surprise discoveries (deep fried pickles and fondue, anyone?) Linni Kral sampled dozens of trendy "functional beverages" to find five that match well with cheese—even if their function is just to taste good. Christine Burns Rudalevige dug into the ancient prohibition against cheese and fish, discovering that while Italians may snub the combo, Greeks embrace it. (Cheese +Fish: It's All Greek to Me, p. 54) And while cheese with cookies is not as wacky as it used to be, with flavors such as Cornmeal Rosemary Shortbread and Ginger Orange, Wackym's Kitchen cookies are a big step up from those Girl Scout cookie and cheese pairings that get rolled out every year. (Spotlight: Pairing, p. 10). There's always something new under the pairing sun. Who knows what we might pair with the artisan cheeses being made in Brazil's Serra di Mantiqueira mountains—if and when they arrive in North America? (A New Frontier, p. 42). Will plant-based cheeses evolve to the point where they inspire turophiles to enjoy them with nut brittle, jam, or mushroom jerky (Vegan Cheese is Here to Stay, p. 48)? I tend to agree with Whole Foods' cheese buyer Shannon Tallman and Yoav Perry of Perrystead Dairy—two of the people interviewed for the story—when they object to calling vegan versions "cheese." But at culture we feel strongly that we can't ignore this fast-growing industry. As always, please let me know what you think. SUSAN SHERRILL AXELROD, EDITOR PHOTO: Heidi Kirn F R O M the E D I T O R TRAVEL ISSUE CORRECTIONS: The feature, New York State of Rind, misstated that Kate Arding established Cowgirl Creamery. Arding was a founding employee of Cowgirl Creamery, which was established by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith. The same story also incorrectly referred to Plane Meadow Farm as Plain Meadow Farm. The Cheesemaker Profile on Von Trapp Farmstead misstated that the creamery makes raw milk cheeses with milk from their herd of mostly Jersey cows. The cheeses are all made from pasteurized milk from the herd of Normande, Monbeliarde, Ayrshire, and Jersey cows. LETTER TO THE EDITOR Dear Agela, I am a 60-year-old privileged white male who lives in Canada—but who grew up in Florida during turbulent times in the 70s and 80s. I am also a (very) amateur cheesemaker, but a (very) professional cheese eater. I have been a culture subscriber for years. And will continue to be so for many reasons, especially being able to read your writing. I cannot remotely begin to identify with the challenges that you and others have faced. But I can promise to endeavor to be a better person—inspired by words such as yours and others who have experiences to share and stories to tell. My very best, Bob Monroe St. Agatha, Ontario

• Cover