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18 culturecheesemag.com E N T E R TA I N I N G 202 2 C H E E S E+ Bittersweet Symphony HA S THE S A ME DUS T Y BOT TLE OF ANGOS TUR A BEEN ON YOUR BAR FOR A DEC ADE? THESE PAIRINGS ARE FOR YOU w r i t t e n by L I N N I KR A L S am Unger likes to think of cocktail bitters as the Mary Poppins of flavor. "When we're making our Pineapple Star Anise [bitters], I'm taking hundreds of pineapples, bringing them into this tiny bottle, then all of a sudden it expands again and it's able to go into hundreds of drinks," says Unger, founder of Vancouver-based Ms. Better's Bitters. She's part of a cohort of artisans making supremely complex and food-friendly bitters, helping to bring these expansive tinctures—long relegated to the mixologist's toolkit—out from behind the bar and into the kitchen. When Unger demos her product to bartenders these days, the chefs stop what they're doing and crowd around to watch. At Le Cordon Bleu in London, PHOTO: fesenko/Adobe Stock she's seen cooks toss nuts destined for a cheese board in bitters before roasting them. "I think [pairing] bitters and cheese is a pretty fantastic idea," says Unger. "It creates dimensionality…they're both going to feed into each other and illuminate each other." Like a celebrity couple that looks so obvious together you can't imagine they were ever apart, cheese and bitters seem fated. Their complements and commonalities are everywhere, once you start looking—both are the result of inputs like wild herbs, ancient recipes, and time; both contain untold bounties of flavor in an unassuming package. Those small dropper bottles pack a spicy, herbaceous palate punch that's practically tailor-made to cut cheese's luxe, creamy base, and the balance they achieve together works at all hours (not just the happy ones). According to Avery Glasser, proprietor of Manhattan bitters and amari bar Amor y Amargo and co-founder of Bittermens Bitters, it all comes down to the five tastes. "The primary flavors in cheese are umami and salty," he says. "If you think of a bitter cocktail, that adds sweetness, bitterness, and sour… the right cheese can create this complete taste profile." But just like Brangelina and Bennifer, there are some high-drama no-fly zones to steer clear of when incorporating these lovers. Both Glasser and Unger advise against using glycerin-based bitters in food, and Glasser suggests playing it safe with uncooked dishes first (think glazes, frostings, whipped creams, ice creams, and salad dressings). "Don't substitute brands without testing first, as one producer's bitters may behave differently," says Glasser. "[And] figure that you need two times the amount of bitters versus a primary extract like vanilla." With all that in mind, you're ready to start playing. Here are some of our favorite ways to combine this flavorful duo. c BETTER WITH CHEDDAR Cheddar aligns itself with bitters in so many dishes, we couldn't pick just one. Read on for a few ways to try this complementary combo. + Cheddar-topped apple pie + Bitter Housewife Westward Hazelnut Bitters (add to unbaked fruit) + Mac and cheese + Hella Bitters Smoked Chili Bitters (add to bechamel) + Pickled vegetables + Scrappy's Celery Bitters (add to brine)