Culture Magazine

58 culturecheesemag.com E N T E R TA I N I N G 202 2 Not surprisingly cheese celebration cakes are popular in Wisconsin, America's Dairyland. "Many people in Wisconsin have a link to the dairy industry, they want to celebrate their heritage, and use cheese towers as a way to do this," says Berry, adding that the captive audience at a private event offers an opportunity for cheese education. "Something I often have to explain is that cheese does not have to be chilled; the flavor develops as it sits at room temperature." One of her favorite cheese tower creations is "The Vineyard," a cheese- and-wine-pairing beauty detailed on DFW's website. "I love the elegance of it," Berry says. "The bottom wheel is Sartori Merlot BellaVitano, which is a crowd-pleasing parmesan/cheddar hybrid washed in merlot wine, a true Wisconsin original. In the middle is Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve (the most-awarded cheese in the US), which has a gorgeous washed rind that lends a luscious, brothy flavor to this grass- fed Beaufort-style cheese. Then at the top is Door Artisan Cheese Company Roseate which is a wine-soaked, cave- aged asiago." The addition of a bunch of grapes extends the vineyard theme and fresh figs complement both the color and taste of the cheese. LAYERING UP Back in Yorkshire, Rachel Cheshire has set up Celebration Cheeses, a bespoke service for providing cheese towers. "I describe myself and my staff as cheese architects," she says. She has a portfolio of 400 cheeses to offer customers, although some, including Wensleydale Creamery's Fountains Gold Cheddar with Caramelised Onion, the original Wensleydale, and the Cheshire Cheese Company's dramatic black Charcoal Cheddar are particularly popular with her customers. Another favorite cheese in her structures is Baron Bigod Brie, from Suffolk, which "is not as soft and holds its shape better than most bries." Cheshire arranges consultations with tastings and then plans towers with her clients based on taste preferences, visual impact, and budget. She matches decorations, which include real, edible, and artificial flowers, feathers, and fruit, to the cheese and floral bouquets, and also provides crackers and chutneys to accompany the cheese. The cheese tower trend has already evolved in the place where it all began— and beyond. Since fruit cake and pork pie often accompany cheese in Yorkshire, Cheshire and Fleming offer towers that incorporate these elements as cake tiers. During, and since COVID-19, smaller cakes have become popular. George and Joseph in Yorkshire and Murray's in New York now sell small towers for intimate gatherings, including Valentine's Day towers for two. Gaube has also started to see cheese towers ordered as groom's cakes, "cheese for him and cake for her." Many people, of course, will continue to choose a traditional sweet cake as a celebration centerpiece or a wedding grand finale. But as interest in and passion for great cheese continues to grow, it's a good bet we'll see more cheese towers being ceremoniously sliced by bride and groom. Now, all someone has to do is figure out how to replicate the classic wedding cake face smash with cheese. c CHOOSING YOUR CHEESE The cheesemongers I spoke with emphasized the need for balance—a balanced variety of cheeses so that everyone has something they enjoy, and a tower that will structurally balance well. For the latter it is important to start with a hard cheese and use soft cheeses as toppers. Cheddar cheeses often make a good base as they are supplied in large wheels. DFW's Shannon Berry recommends Hook's Cheddar, available in various vintages. Gloucester and Double Gloucester also work well. To make a visual impact it's also important to consider color. Murray's Maria Gaube suggests Humboldt Fog from Cypress Grove as a popular white cheese. Extra color might come from a blue such as Stilton or the range of blue cheeses produced by Roth in Wisconsin. Ash can add another tone, either as a covering or a line through the centre, as in Morbier. Wensleydale and Lancashire make good middle layers, adding a crumbly texture but forming solid blocks. They also pair well with savory and sweet, including fruitcake. brieandbanquet OKAY! This custom Cheese "Cake" though! Can't stop won't stop with this one!

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