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Cooking With Cheese 2023 CultureMagazine

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66 culturecheesemag.com C O O K I N G W I T H C H E E S E 202 3 Cheese Plates 1. L'AMUSE SIGNATURE GOUDA Origin: Amsterdam, Netherlands Milk: Pasteurized cow + Di BRUNO BROS. BLACK LAVA CASHEWS "The crunchiest queen in all the land! She tastes like toffee and pecans with the smacky texture of nut butter," says Kubick. Not that it needs a partner in crime, but juicy candied cashews studded with giant chunks of black lava salt ("A little bit goth!") make a formidable match for this two-year aged Gouda. "I always love an aged cheese with any sort of toasted or candied nut, because aged cheese will always have a slightly toasted nut quality, especially ones that are this far along," Kubick says. 3. ISIGNY SAINTE-MÈRE 24-MO. MIMOLETTE Origin: Isigny-sur-Mer, France Milk: Pasteurized cow + GUS & GREY SOUTHERN LOVIN' BLACKBERRY BOURBON VANILLA JAM + SALTED PISTACHIOS Fiery orange Mimolette turns heads wherever it goes. Its pumpkin- hued paste gets its color from annatto, a natural food coloring derived from the seed of the achiote tree. Mimolette is France's answer to Dutch Gouda, following a similar aging regimen. And as any fan of aged cheese knows, the crystals are where it's at. "When you get the aged, crunchy [cheeses], the ones that have the crystalline structure, and that really craggy-looking rind," says Kubick, "that's the show- stopper." She recommends contrasting the tangy, toasty, caramelized profile of a two-year aged Mimolette with boozy blackberry jam and salty pistachios. 4. ROQUEFORT CARLES AOP Origin: Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, France Milk: Raw sheep + AMES FARM FALL WILDFLOWER COMB HONEY A supporting role no more, Penicillium roqueforti takes center stage in this small-batch, artisan Roquefort. The mold is propagated on loaves of rye bread, then inoculated into the cheese's buttery paste, where it blasts cannon holes filled with emerald green fur. "It's extremely romantic, a beautiful cheese," says Kubick, who perceives it to be a little less "bitey" than other more classic Roqueforts. This is one cheese that doesn't require a brassy accompaniment, but instead a lightly floral honey will tease out the flowery notes inherent in the sheep's milk. 2. CAPRIOLE O'BANON Origin: Greenville, Indiana Milk: Pasteurized goat + LUXARDO ORIGINAL MARASCHINO CHERRIES + MILLER'S DAMSEL GLUTEN-FREE CHARCOAL CRACKERS Modeled after a traditional Provençal cheese, O'Banon has a flavor profile that Kubick says, "blossoms on your tongue with notes of f resh forest and a sweet tea finish." Swathed in bourbon-soaked chestnut leaves and wrapped up like a dainty sachet, this one's devilishly easy to eat in one sitting. Topped with glistening Luxardo cherries on a buttery charcoal crisp, who even needs dessert? 1 2 3 4 CROWN JEWELS Pairings by Erika Kubick, @cheesesexdeath written by MARGARET LEAHY photographed by NICK SURETTE styled by MADISON TRAPKIN

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