Textile Insight

F rom textile sourcing to designing for end-of-life, shoe brands are increasingly focused on finding circular solutions. is approach was central to a webinar hosted by Material Exchange during which footwear execs discussed their sustainability journey. Here are a few takeaways from the conver- sation that included panelists Andee Burton, senior manager sustainability, Caleres; Casey Dworkin, founder, Sylven, and Tanita Gray, CEO, Shoe Waste. Designing for Circularity Burton: "Our Edit to Win initiative creates less waste by targeting the needs (of the user) first and then we start the design process. We also have established 'Hero' items. at means we create one item that everyone can design from; basically this provides a 'Hero' model so we're not starting from scratch every time." Caleres is a global footwear company with a diverse portfolio that includes Dr Scholls and Vionic. Dworkin: "We need to be very focused on components – uppers, liners, back counters – so we can design from a holistic perspec- tive. If each component is eco-aware, then the sum of these parts will be eco-friendly. I start by considering what is the best look for this purpose; and then I think about how to incorporate features to make the shoe beautiful. Step three is to work backwards to make the shoe in the most responsible way possible." Sylven is a plant-derived luxury shoe brand. Gray: "Stop and get educated first. Before you even start the design process, take time to learn about the components, the materials, the manufacturing and the sourcing." Gray is a CA-based consultant with expertise in sustainable practices, circular design, and the green economy . Materials that Advance Circularity Dworkin: "We've been using coconut husks for our insoles. Coconut is naturally antimicrobial and antibacterial. And we add a layer of cork for comfort. Choosing materials with an eye on designing for end of life is challenging. Especially in the luxury space. You could make a single molded, minimalistic sustainable shoe, but is that the best shoe for the end use?" Burton: "A favorite is Bloom, an algae based foam. Also, because Caleres has so many brands we need to address affordability and feature a microfiber that can be used across the brands. Currently almost 50 percent of the polyester microfiber used is recycled. We try to make each component better whether that is recycled, natural fiber or new bio innovations." Gray: "I like what's called 'DeMaterialization Strategy,' which is about reducing the number of inputs whether that's materials and/or pack- aging or reducing the complexity of a supply chain." Strategies for Circularity Burton: "On the design side, designers are using our leover materials. On the supply chain side, we have a waste production pro- gram with 20+ Tier 1 suppliers that is all about zero waste to landfill. We're hoping for 100 percent participation in this program by 2025. In addition, we have been doing a lot of work consolidating partnerships by trimming the number of suppliers and outside articles to go deep and narrow with key partners who are coming with us on this circularity journey." Dworkin: "Location plays a big role. at's why we focus on Italy. ere we are in close proximity to all our partners in the chain. For our apple leather, for example, our apple waste producer is located just 45 minutes north from where we make the leather. Keeping a tight chain in Italy is also in my view where the quality is best." n Footwear & Circularity development is the result of a new partnership between Ariat, a riding footwear specialist, and Altexa Srl and GHS Holdings, supplier of the HDry 3D direct lamination waterproof breath- able membrane. Riley Goldman, Ariat's senior manager, product merchandising for footwear, states, "At Ariat, we strive to deliver the best in innovation and technology. Partnering with HDry has added functional, breathable waterproof construction to our shoes." Blueview Footwear: Sustainable SoCal Cool is classic surf-inspired casual gets an eco-update with an upper made from 100 percent plant-based yarns and a bottom made from a sustainable polyurethane formulation. e patented eco foam innovation, called Soleic, sourced from plant-based oils, is the result of a $15M investment and over five years in development by scientists at UC San Diego. To create its proprietary PlantKnit upper material, a unique hemp/eucalyptus blend, Blueview worked closely with knitting machine suppliers and programmers. According to the company, the Pacific Sneaker is designed to start and end in nature to create a completely sustainable and waste-free life cycle. n textileinsight.com Winter 2023 ~ Textile Insight • 15 Andee Burton Caleres Casey Dworkin Sylven Tanita Gray Shoe Waste

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