Textile Insight

A t the recent Kingpins show held in New York City, executives stressed that cooperation, from supply chain partnerships to sus- tainability innovation, is what's needed to prosper in 2023 and onward in the years ahead. The Lycra Company's Ebru Ozaydin, strategic marketing director denim, wovens, and ready-to-wear, said it best, when ex- plaining her company's holistic approach to business. "Lycra is connecting all along the value chain to help design product that benefits people, the planet and profit. It's no longer 'me,' it's we." Ozaydin's comment also highlights that partnership, performance and process are all part of the conversation these days. Eco, whether recycled, bio-based or chemical free, remains key, of course. But whereas sustain- ability was the buzziest topic in previous shows, in 2023 it is one piece of the denim puzzle. Also interesting is that vendors at Kingpins used words like "durability" and "longevity" more oen than falling back on the term "sustainability" when describing new product attributes. e Lycra Company introduced LYCRA lastingFIT 2.0 technology at the January fair. e latest innovation in its LYCRA XTRA LIFE brand portfolio, the new technology delivers elevated functionality in fiber made from recycled fibers. Benefits include a range of stretch levels, long-lasting recovery, a so hand, and an authentic denim look. "Consumers are concerned about reduc- ing their environmental footprint and are increasingly investing in higher quality, more durable garments," said Ozaydin. "Longer-lasting fibers can contribute to extended garment wear life so we are pleased to showcase fabrics and samples featuring LYCRA lastingFIT 2.0 technology." e Lycra Company's collaborative collec- tion with Naveena Denim features the new technology. "As a fabric mill we have to be constantly innovating," said Sameer Tata, director, Naveena Denim Limited (NDL), a specialized denim manufacturer based in Lahore, Pakistan. Tata commented on the use of Dyneema in NDL's new technical textile division with a focus on durable workwear fabrics. An upcoming moto collection will be made with Dyneema. "We continue to find ways to level up comfort and features both high-function and aesthetics," said Tata. Strong partnerships are a priority at Sapphire Finishing Mill, according to Salman Zulqadar, director sales & marketing. "We all have to work together in the industry now. From fiber, to producer and converter to processor." He pointed out that these days collaboration is key. "People want a story and you can't create a story in isolation," Zulqadar explained. "And that includes performance, sustainability, how you produce and who you're working with. Industry is realizing that it's all about the chain. It's old school to think fiber sells to yarn makers and that's the only connection. Now it goes from fiber all the way to the brand." Shannon Rippy, senior design, Nishat Mills, added, "Doing eco is now everywhere; you can't just say 'this is sustainable,' you have to take it to the next level with new methods, innovation and techniques." A good example is Nishat's new eco-driven stonewash technology. "It looks and feels like stonewash but we use far less water consumption in the process," said Rippy. Denim for Spring/Summer 2024 feature a range of looks, colors, textures and influ- ences. Amy Leverton's presentation focused on four key trends identified by her firm Denim Dudes: X-S, Burned Out, e Last Tourist, and ETHOS. One through line was color – yellows, greens, pinks are giving blue some competition in the season ahead as is a mostly youthful attitude and garment design that lets "the fabric speak for itself." According to Leverton, everything from cheery brights to dusty brights are strong, surface treatments and texture are big and an interconnectedness with nature is also an important element. She added, "Trends are coming up from "bedroom makers," and not trickling down from the runway." By which she means that independent designers working from home are driving what's new as opposed to big brand fashion designers. Leverton also noted that whereas "ReMade" used to be a big trend, it is now ubiquitous. n Come Together, Right Now Collaboration is a Loud Rallying Cry at Kingpins Denim Show NYC. Narveena Denim features thermoregulation; Green is a denim color trend for the season. IN THE MARKET / TRADE SHOW SCENE 8 • Textile Insight ~ Winter 2023 textileinsight.com

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