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C H E F ' S D I S H
the food, the energy, the space, and the welcoming and
warm atmosphere," he says. "I'm really trying to achieve
a certain level of energy, a vibe that I grew up with that's
specific to—at least from my experience—Middle Eastern
culture. I'm just doing it in a Millennial, first-generation
American sort of way."
But when he brought in a sample and dutifully
untangled the braid into snackable shreds, the team
didn't feel inspired. "When it's on its own in a bowl on a
table, it kind of falls flat," he says. "And then I was like,
'Kyle, can we fry this?'"
McCormick developed a batter that transforms the
wavy, bouncy strings into crisp curls that billow like
clouds on the plate. "It was one of those rare moments
where the very first one I made, I realized, 'Oh, this is it,'"
McCormick says.
Despite its resemblance to squiggly, golden funnel
cake, McCormick didn't want the dish to eat like fair
food. To create a batter that fries up light and delicate,
he blends beer and vodka with cake flour and leavening.
Once the hot cheese is on the plate, he sprinkles a nigella-
based spice powder on top, a nod to its traditional
flavoring. Each order comes with a cup of red sauce on
Chef Kyle McCormick chose to
feature L'Amuse Gouda on Mish
Mish's tight dessert menu for its
deep caramel sweetness.
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