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Innovation 2023 CultureMagazine

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I N N OVAT I O N 202 3 culturecheesemag.com 39 which is the top importer of sheep's milk cheese in the world. "It was 33 million pounds of [sheep] cheese imported that year," she says. "That's more than two truckloads of cheese a day." European sheep cheeses like feta, Manchego, pecorino, and Roquefort are popular in the states, but consumers often don't realize they're sheep products. And until they were recently lifted, bans on importing sheep genetics into the US due to disease concerns inhibited farmers' ability to improve their flocks. Currently, there are fewer than 200 sheep dairies nationwide. Assafs, known for high milk volume and fertility, were developed in Israel in the 1950s and have been selectively bred by Spanish breeders since the 1970s. Spanish Assafs are backed by robust genomic data, and they fare as well in Wisconsin's freezing winters as they do in Spain's Mediterranean climate. It's Marques de Almeida's hope that serving as a resource for small ruminant farmers and providing access to high-quality genetics can help make raising dairy sheep viable in this country. If high-quality genetics become easier to source, she believes, the barrier to entry and startup costs for would-be dairy sheep farmers will be much lower. Sheep are smaller, easier to handle, and require less feed than cows. Plus, sheep's "If we are looking at building local markets, we need to increase production here, and we need to use the tools that they have in Europe to produce cheese here." 1852: Winthrop Chenery of Massachusetts purchases the US's first Holstein cow from a Dutch ship's officer in Boston, who kept the animal on the vessel to supply fresh milk on his voyage from the Netherlands. Morgan Holes milking a sheep at Maple Leaf Cheese. Assaf ewes line up for milking time.

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