Textile Insight

Munich Fair Spotlights Evolving Expectations for Industry & Consumers. By Emily Walzer IN THE MARKET / PERFORMANCE DAYS F rom membrane technology to fiber priorities, a new textile landscape is taking shape in 2023. Impending environmen- tal regulations and a heightened focus on circularity is driving change and disrupting the industry status quo. Iconic outdoor performance materials are giving way to safer, more sustainable solutions and at the same time fabric suppliers are re-thinking fiber priorities and ramping up decarbonation tactics to achieve 2030 and 2050 net zero goals. e upside is a textile industry poised to enter a post-PFAS world, however, this next stage of eco evolution is also ushering in plenty of confusion. ese issues were front and center at the recent Performance Days show. Once again, the fair's Focus Topic was "Journey to Carbon Neutrality," with an added emphasis on "Create. Align. Compare." High-level expert talks set the tone of the two-day Munich fair with a flow of information that outlined the challenges, as well as opportunities, happen- ing all along the textile supply chain, from regenerative farming to eco-specific labeling on finished goods, all the while keeping track of a carbon footprint step by step. A highlight of Day 1 of the March expo was a deep dive into membrane technology. "Ever since ZDHC announced that the bluesign endorsement of PTFE substrates was being withdrawn with the introduction of the EU Green Deal parameters the per- meable waterproof membrane has been the focus of much attention. Current PTFE and electrospun technologies will come under scrutiny," explained Charles Ross, sports- wear and performance textile specialist and moderator for Performance Days expert talk sessions. "When I joined the industry over 30 years ago there was differentiation between what technologies were being used, but the promotional money spent has changed the consumer question from 'Will It Keep Me Dry?' to 'Is It Waterproof ?'" With so much happening in the mem- brane category, a rapid-fire format, called Pechakucha, was employed to allow 10 fabric suppliers to present slides, statistics and material advancements in record time. Each presenter was given only 20 seconds per slide to showcase their product, and speakers were oen le breathless as the session came to a close! Execs from Polartec, Trenchant, Singtex and its partner Modern Meadow, Ventile, eVent, Pertex, Dimpora, BenQ, Amphico and Sympatex participated. A panel discussion on the topic was also part of the membrane innovation overview. e upshot: Today's strides in membrane sustainability represents a significant shi in terms of technical outerwear for the out- door marketplace. New designs — whether hydrophilic or monolithic in structure — are free of harmful chemicals yet achieve or exceed performance standards. Innovation is found in advanced air permeability, mono- material construction, as well as bio-based fibers. e latest offerings are lightweight yet durable with comfort features for everyday wearability. "We're now at an inflection point, and dramatic change is coming," said Matt Cleary, who along with his wife and company COO Sandra Hung, are two of the four founders of Trenchant Textiles. e Taiwanese company's latest development, PP3, is a polypropylene monomaterial – face fabric, membrane and backer material are all polypropylene. Polypropylene seam tape, polypropylene zipper and polypropylene recycling process are all in the works in order to achieve a "clear path to circularity," said Cleary. "We, and the industry as a whole, are moving away from PFAS and PTFE and traditional membrane technology we've had for years, and moving toward PFC-free, VOC-free and monomaterial membrane innovation." Indeed, execs introduced several new products, all PFAS-free and solvent-free, without sacrificing functionality. BenQ introduced its lightweight, yet long lasting Agile product based on the company's XPore membrane, targeting active/lifestyle. eVent fabrics previewed AlpineST, a high-perfor- mance bio-based membrane designed for cold and extreme weather conditions. e new Polartec Power Shield features expe- dition grade performance and enhanced comfort notable for its stretch and drape properties. Pertex unveiled Revolve, a mono- material product. According to suppliers, what's needed now is education on these new PFAS-free products. "Six years ago getting to this stage with PFAS-free product was unimaginable. Now we talk about the next level of advances," stated Rudiger Fox, CEO, Sympatex. "e goal is to create an environment for circular- ity and an environment for recyclability." n Seriously Sustainable The Performance Forum is a must-see for the lat- est planet-positive functional fabrics. 12 • Textile Insight ~ Spring 2023 textileinsight.com "Six years ago getting to this stage with PFAS-free product was unimaginable. Now we talk about the next level of advances." RUDIGER FOX, CEO, SYMPATEX

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