Textile Insight

HIP HOP TURNS 50 e Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) held a stellar exhibit this Spring celebrating the history of hip hop that examined the evolution of the genre — from its start in the Bronx to become a mainstream crossover with global appeal — showcasing the incredible influence the genre has had on culture at large and the sportswear x streetwear trend in particular. Tracksuits (adidas), workwear (Carhartt jackets, Timberland boots), sneakers (adidas, Nike, Converse, Reebok, etc.) are just a few examples. e wide range of garments and footwear on display at "Fresh Fly Fabulous: 50 years of Hip Hop Style'' illuminated how hip hop managed to pull together a variety of elements to create its own unique style. ose of us around in the early days of the sporting goods industry may remember that Run-D.M.C. was on the scene at an Atlanta Super Show in the early '80s thanks to their hit single My Adidas. Fast-forward four decades it's hard to imagine what urban street fashion would be without the hip hop revolution, and the role functional fabrics and active/outdoor brands played in this style revolution. n CALL IT ACTIVE COUTURE Now that celeb fashion designer Norma Kamali has gotten into the Pickleball game with her recent launch of a Pickleball dress, the nascent sport reaches a new level of status. Kamali, and others in fashion oen find inspiration in functional fitness wear — hence the rise of athleisure. Now, however, the couture crowd is focusing its fascination with sport-adjacent looks by adventuring into the great outdoors; DIOR by Mystery Ranch debuts in a Summer '23 men's collection of backpacks and bags, "elevating functionality to the ultimate statement,'' according to a statement from DIOR. e four-piece line features CORDURA's recycled nylon re/cor RN66 fabric. (Mystery Ranch is a long-time Cordura brand partner and early adopter of re/cor.) "is collaboration is a testament to companies that care deeply about their cras and the communities they serve," said Dana Gleason, Mystery Ranch founder. Yet, at a certain point, the line between high-fashion and active lifestyle diverges. e menswear designer om Brown advises people not to wear a pair of his $630 running shoes while running. n FIT FOR ALL ere has been considerable re-evaluation of fit in recent years as brands shi their focus to offer more inclusivity in sizing to appeal to a more diverse audience. Alvanon, a global fit specialist, is updating the Petite category using digital tools to better reflect a contemporary consumer market. Petite, and its technical designation of 5 '4'' and under, is not new. It harkens back to the 1940s thanks to designer Hannah Troy. Now, it is transforming based on new thinking and new technology. "It's all about proportion, and all about bringing digital tools to the real world," said Alvanon executive director, Don Howard, in a recent webinar, explaining that the end goal is still the fit of a physical garment but now using a 3D world of digitalization designers can really focus on shape. For example, a body may be larger on a 5'4" frame, but not taller. Company executives emphasize that the Virtual Alvaform is literally a digital twin of the physical Fitform and thus allows a brand to meet both customer fit needs and meet the needs of today's industry. n Style, Sustainability & Sizing Emerging Trends & Hot Topics for the Season Ahead. IN THE MARKET / INDUSTRY BUZZ 6 • Textile Insight ~ Spring 2023 textileinsight.com Active Couture image: ©Jackie Nickerson

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