Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaledition.com/i/1500122
THE HOT LIS T 202 3 culturecheesemag.com 17 CHEF'S DISH W hile San Francisco is indisputably a diverse food city with Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisine in almost every neighborhood, Spanish food can be harder to find. That was especially true until 2011, when chef Mat Schuster and his life and business partner Paco Cifuentes opened Canela Bistro and Wine Bar on Market Street, bringing patatas fritas and paella to the Castro neighborhood. More than 10 years later, the cozy and welcoming bistro is still serving loyal customers both traditional Spanish and Spanish-inspired California cuisine, along with an ever-changing, exclusively Spanish wine list. In many ways, Schuster's path to opening and cooking at his own restaurant was not typical. The Texas native studied business administration at Emory University in Atlanta, Georgia, but a college roommate who noted he was "always cooking" suggested he go to culinary school. Schuster set off for California, and in 1999 earned a degree from the California Culinary Academy (CCA) of Food, which was a satellite program of the CCA in San Diego. Schuster's interest in Spanish cuisine came into focus when he met Cifuentes while teaching cooking classes at Whole Foods Market in San Mateo. Thus began many trips to Spain—mostly to La Rioja, where Schuster "staged" (the professional kitchen term for an internship) in several Michelin-starred restaurants, including Echaurren and Venta Moncalvillo. At Canela, Schuster's cooking draws on these experiences, as well as more traditional, regional Spanish food. "There's a lot of cooking for mama, but also molecular gastronomy—lots of really cool stuff," he says. The diverse menu includes multiple tapas options, which can be ordered à la carte, or from two special menus: the chef 's tapas tasting menu, and the paella and tapas prix fixe menu. On the à la carte tapas menu are nine quesos de Espana that diners select from to build a board (or pretty pink ceramic platter) that comes with a bite of spicy charcuterie, olives, and honeycomb. Arzúa-Ulloa, a cow's milk cheese from the Galicia region has a tangy, yogurt- like flavor and is a favorite of Schuster's for its creamy texture and versatility. Other offerings include Manchego and Pica Oveja—a sheep's milk cheese from La Mancha that's aged for 120 days and infused with spicy chili, which gives it a considerable kick and a sunset-orange hue. Smokin' Goat, one of three goat cheese offerings, is a semi-soft pale white cheese with pleasant smoky notes that complement the milky flavors. Ajo Negro is an umami-packed delight made from At Central Formaggi we've been making cheese in Sardinia, Italy for four generations—over 130 years. The more than 50 varieties of sheep and goats milk cheeses we produce are the result of traditional expertise blended with a spirit of innovation, experimentation, and modern technology. The flagship of our aged cheese collection is the award winning Moliterno best known as the decadent and unique black truffle- infused Moliterno al Tartufo, cra…ed using handwoven reed baskets with the name Central inscribed on each wheel to insure that you receive the authentic, highest quality product. Moliterno is also available in two other flavors: Moliterno al Vino and al Pepe; and in two sizes: Moliterno Gigante and the smaller Moliternino. Our most recent addition to the Moliterno family is Bianco, made with goat's milk. Embrace the Unique and Unmistakable Flavors of Moliterno www.central.it @central_formaggi