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ENTERTAINING 202 3 culturecheesemag.com 39 M ezcal is quickly becoming one of the United States' favorite spirits. According to a market research report released by Technavio in July, the mezcal market is expected to grow by nearly $430 million from 2022 to 2027, driven in large part by the rising demand for premium spirits. If you're unfamiliar with this agave-based parent of tequila, there is a lot to know, but you don't have to be an expert to enjoy it—or travel to Mexico, although I recommend it. Mezcal is made from the heart of the agave plant. Agave has been intrinsically linked to Mexican culture for centuries as food, fiber, and pulque—a fermented agave beverage drunk by Aztec royalty—which is still found in Mexican bars today. The archeological evidence is disputed, but agave distillation appears to have become widespread after the Spanish conquest when conquistadors brought Filipino slaves to Mexico and these enslaved people shared their distillation methods with Indigenous peoples. There are three types of mezcal produced today: industrial—the most common—artisanal, and ancestral. Like cheese, I believe it is important to find and support artisans who not only make high-quality products but also help sustain small communities and preserve long-standing traditions. Mezcal production begins with growing agave. In stark contrast to the ingredients used for other spirits— grapes and grain, for example—agave plants are not harvested annually. Espadin agave, which is used for the majority of mezcals available in the US, takes five years to mature, while other varieties, such as madrecuishe and tobasiche, can take 10 to 15 years. To produce artisanal mezcal, agave hearts are slowly roasted in a pit or above- ground masonry ovens; the hearts are then crushed, transferred to a wooden vat, and mixed with water. The vat is left open to allow wild fermentation to occur, and distillation is done in wood or copper stills. Ancestral mezcal is made much the same way, except clay pots must be used for fermentation and distillation. Industrial mezcal can be produced using stainless steel tanks and modern technology. Both artisanal and ancestral methods result in mezcals strongly impacted by terroir. In my mind, this makes mezcal more like fine wine as opposed to other types of alcohol, and like wine, its incredible subtlety and complexity are ideal for pairing with cheese. Since the first cheese made in the New World was made in Mexico, you could say that the history of pairing mezcal with cheese predates American cheese and drink pairings. Going to the Source The southern coastal state of Oaxaca is the heart of mezcal production in Mexico. On a recent visit, I met up with my friend and mezcal expert, Eusebio Villalobos Cortés (Chebo), in the capital—also called Oaxaca—to find inspired pairings for five of my favorite Oaxacan mezcals. The city's most famous market is the centrally located Veinte de Noviembre, but I like Mercado Merced, which is not as well known, yet still frequented by tourists. (Chebo spotted celebrity chef David Chang there last year.) It's closer to Chebo's house, so that's where we picked up some cheeses from one of my favorite stalls. They specialize in quesillo, beautiful little balls of string Since the first cheese made in the New World was made in Mexico, you could say that the history of pairing Mezcal and cheese predates American cheese and drink pairings. Tobasiche mezcal + Luz de Luna Cardamom Chocolate + sal de rosa