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launched the leather standard with footwear in mind." An inventive collaboration between Lowa and Hohenstein brings to market the Lady Light GTX Lowa boot; Each component of the new Lowa boot, along with the complete shoe, is tested to the new Oeko-Tex leather standard, despite there being more than 100 components. "I agree, in footwear there are cutting edge developments not yet been seen in clothing industry," states Matteo Morlacchi, founder, HDry - Altexa SRL, specializing in 3Dimensional lamination. e technology allows the waterproof/breathable membrane to be applied in a way that eliminates a gap between a shoe upper and membrane avoiding use of seam sealing tapes. "We know there is much interest in the clothing industry for a waterproof tapeless construction, increasing lightness and sustainability, so we are currently working to adapt our 3D lamination process in apparel." He cites a recent R&D project in cooperation with Shima Seiki and Woolmark on wholegarment performance wool in knit. Uppers & Components e range of materials used for uppers is expanding every day. Examples of natural fibers featured in footwear include merino wool, recycled cotton, organic cotton, hemp and a variety of natural fiber blends. Materials based on cactus, pineapple, apple and other fruits and vegetables are starting to make inroads in the category of "natural leathers." So, too, a niche segment of "regenerative rubber," looks to have potential to scale. At the same time, recycled synthetics are also on the rise, most notably recycled nylon and recycled polyester. The company Solum Tread has introduced an interesting "reinforcement" for rubber. As the sole of the footwear wears down during use, the Solum Tread releases positive nutrients that support the surrounding ecosystem. is type of eco-forward functionality is viewed as a category to watch going forward. In the meantime, foams are a major talking point, particularly new compounds that go beyond established formulas. Emerging now are lighter, soer foams that also deliver energy return. Buzzwords such as "responsiveness" and "supercritical" are oen used to describe the latest advances. For instance, in new styles of Mount to Coast distance running shoes the midsole material is based on a supercritical fluid foaming process using pure nitrogen rather than chemical blow agents. At the November 2023 ISPO trade event, an expert jury awarded the brand's midsole construction, stating "this innovative foam blend not only enhances the shoe's performance but also puts it on the right track for eco-conscious production. It's a step forward in the running shoe segment." However, until all foams are made chemical-free, recyclability remains difficult. e company Kingsteel, headquartered in Taiwan, has recently debuted a technology that allows more tolerance for mixed materials to be recyclable. According to the company, the chemical-free NexCell process works like this: Once the plastic material is melted into a liquid state, it is evenly mixed with nitrogen or carbon dioxide without producing any chemical reactions. e finished product maintains its original plastic macromolecule state. When recycled, it only needs to be grounded before it is produced into pellets with injection, resulting in plastic material that can be 100 percent recycled. From a circularity standpoint, this is yet another way footwear suppliers and ingredient makers are making sustainability strides. n Hdry X Scarpa collaboration on two styles, the Phantom 8000 Thermic HD and Ribellle Lite HD won the Performance Award for footwear at Performance Days Munich last October. Awards jury members called out the high-performance, mountain sports boots for having few seams and a PFAS-membrane directly on the outer fabric, noting that the technology impressed with "enormous robustness and water resistance." Craft Xplor Hybrid is referred to as the "gravel bike" of running shoes because of its distinct crossover capabilities. The lightweight, soft PX Foam midsole – featuring energy return and a smooth ride– and a one-piece mesh upper together resemble a road shoe, while the customized traction outsole mimics the grip of a gravel bicycle tire, resulting in versatile performance on and off the trail. Lowa Lady Light GTX Lowa boot captured the Eco Performance Award at the November 2023 Functional Fabric Fair Footwear Forum notable for being 100 percent tested to the new Oeko-Tex Leather Standard. Features include a midsole made of 100 percent PU, an insole made of 10 percent mesh, 40 percent polyester and 50 percent visco-elastic latex foam. The upper is nubuck leather. sportstylemag.com • sportstyle January/February 2024 • 25

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