Footwear Insight

10 • Footwear Insight ~ March/April 2024 footwearinsight.com By Emily Walzer F aced with the question of, 'if not now, when' concerning the footwear in- dustry's hey carbon footprint, recent developments in next-gen materials and new age technologies are compelling ex- amples of how footwear brands are answering the call to action. Companies are going beyond established sustainability practices by escalating decarbonization efforts, resulting in innovative research and modern manufacturing methods that lighten the eco impact of shoes and help combat climate change. Decarbonizing footwear is no easy task. According to o-quoted statistics, more than 20 billion shoes are made every year, using a manufacturing process that releases large amounts of carbon dioxide, declared to be responsible for 1.4 percent of global GHG emissions. Additionally, in the U.S., over 300 million pairs of shoes are discarded annually, 95 percent of which end up in landfills. "Sustainably produced shoes should embody circularity and durability, facilitating the ability to reuse, repair, remanufacture and recycle. ey should be manufactured with a focus on reducing their overall carbon footprint, using no hazardous chemicals and avoiding the release of harmful chemicals and micro- plastics during use," explains Nina Conrad, a sustainability consultant for footwear. Conrad notes that, "a functional shoe today typically consists of more than 40 components, making the selection and sensible combination of sustainable components yet another hurdle." Strides in Next Gen Materials It's no secret that adoption of environ- mentally responsible, ethically-sourced performance-driven materials are key to a sustainable future for footwear. e Material Innovation Initiative (MII) 2023 State of the Industry Report: Next Gen Materials, shines a light on the opportunities and challenges of this emerging marketplace. Of the material innovators listed in the re- cently-released MII Report, new plant-based alternative leathers dominate product offerings. Of the 137 companies represented, 52.9 percent use plant derived materials as the main input; 13.6 percent use microbe derived materials; 11.4 percent are blends; 10 percent use recycled material; 7.9 percent use mycelium; and 4.3 percent use cultivated animal cells. "Getting from prototype to pilot launch can be long and expensive," commented MII co-founder and CEO, Nicole Rawling. "Consumers have been hearing about these cool new materials but not seeing them in the marketplace, which has slowed acceptance and some investment numbers." However, according to MII's Brand Engagement Survey, partnerships between industry brands and material innovators continued to accelerate in 2023. While that bodes well going forward, Rawling believes more investment is strongly needed, from both private investors and gov- ernment, in order to research, develop and scale next-gen materials. Carbon Tech & Circular Systems Come of Age e Swiss footwear brand On has introduced CleanCloud, a new high-performance foam for running shoes created by using carbon emissions as a raw material. e launch is a collaborative effort with LanzaTech and Borealis, companies specializing in advanced, circular solutions. is is the process: LanzaTech captures STEP LIGHTLY AS DECARBONIZATION LEVELS UP, ECO IMPACTS LEVEL OFF SUSTAINABILITY Icebug Larvik Hemp Biosole Boot

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