Textile Insight

T he advent of plastic technology and the man-made fiber produc- tion boom of the 1950s and '60s has led to a dramatic increase in plastic and textile waste finding its way into our oceans, landfills and global environment. Plastics, including textile fibers, can take hundreds of years to break down and can cause further environmental pollution in the process. Within the past 30 years, progress has been made recycling plastics (rPET), and fabrics made of nylon, polypropylene or 100% polyes- ter, but much more recycling is needed. ere are significant obstacles, particularly with polyester blended fibers and fabrics. According to the Textile Exchange, polyester accounted for 54% globally of all textile fibers in 2022. However, only about 14% of polyester waste was being recycled, and the majority of this involves plastic bottles. Obstacles still remain with blended synthetic fibers and fabrics. In addition, a much broader expansion of con- sumer recycling awareness and participation is needed to solve the ongoing problem of textile/apparel/plastic waste. Research at the University of Rhode Island (URI) is taking on the complex challenge of recycling textile and plastic waste. Under the direction of Izabela Ciesielska-Wrobel, assis- tant professor in the Department of Textiles, Fashion Merchandising & Design, URI, is finding new ways for recycling plastic waste with one goal of finding a new type of "raw material" with practical textile applications. Currently, URI works mostly with recycled polypropylene (PP), polyester (PET), and nylon, but the sources of plastic wastes are much broader, including fishnets/gear, films, and other plastic debris. Focus on Sustainability Within the textile program at URI, there is a group of passionate conservationists dedicated to recycling textile waste. "Whenever the faculty and our group discuss textile research, we invariably end up talking about pollution, sustainability, plastic waste, the textile industry, and plastic conversion concepts," explains Ciesielska-Wrobel. It was at one of these meetings that Ciesielska-Wrobel met Robert Torgerson, founder and president of Kestrel Innovative Fibers, LLC (KIF), Wakefield, Rhode Island, and John Riendeau from US Extruders, based in Westerly, Rhode Island. KIF produces fibers from recycled plastics harvested from the ocean. Currently, KIF's multi- and mono-filaments are used for tennis racket strings, clothing, and sports apparel. URI is also working with the Commercial Fisheries Research Foundation in Newport, RI, on collecting and submitting samples of fishnet waste for URI to test, recycle, and convert into filament fiber. Currently, Ciesielska-Wrobel and Torgerson are studying these ocean plastic conversions for textile filament fibers. Testing/Recycling Process URI uses Mechanical Recycling as its method of recycling textile waste. e major challenges incurred with this recycling Taking on Recycling Challenges URI'S Research Turns Ocean Plastic Waste into Textiles. By Kathryn Swantko EDUCATION / UNIVERSITY OF RHODE ISLAND 48 • Textile Insight ~ Spring 2024 textileinsight.com Extrusion Line First Sample Melted at 200 degrees celsius at 25RPM dosage done by hand as well as extraction. Otrange net/bag. Fiber content unkown. Spun Filament Clean & Cut Samples

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