Culture Magazine

THE HOT LIS T 2024 culturecheesemag.com 49 What's your number one goal for your career in the cheese industry? I am really excited about expanding the Artisan Cheese Program and Certificate at Boston University. When Ihsan Gurdal of Formaggio Kitchen retired last year, I became the instructor of the program. It's been expanded from six weeks to a full semester. I wanted to crack the program open and collaborate with the broader cheese community in a big way. I am proud of the work I did this spring. We've had guest speakers, including a panel with Kyra James, Agela Abdullah, and Emi Lee on diversity and inclusion in the cheese industry; Heather Paxson from MIT spoke about her research with artisanal cheesemakers, Liz Thorpe, Emilia D'Albero, and Ryan Randell hosted a panel on the role of cheesemonger, and we visited 4 Vermont cheesemakers during a two day field trip. And, of course, there are the tastings. We had 10 in total! I hope to do more collaborations next year. What's the biggest challenge you've experienced or overcome in the industry? Working in the food industry is HARD. It is very physical and a far cry from my days at a desk. I work way harder for less pay than I did in tech. To be honest though, I've been super lucky in my cheese career. My tech career afforded me the opportunity to start Life Love Cheese with little personal risk. Getting invited to teach the Artisan Cheese Program at Boston University was a lucky break. Seriously, I was in the right place at the right time to take advantage of that offer, and that work has opened many opportunities for me in the industry. So yeah, it's hard making this career change, but I'm also grateful that some opportunities just presented themselves. Pair a celebrity with a cheese: Oh, I'm bad at celebrity stuff, but as an Asian American, I am inspired by Michelle Yeoh these days. She's smoldering hot, does complex, layered characters, and always makes people say, "Wow, that was good." To me, that's Smokey Blue f rom Rogue Creamery in Oregon. You're on a desert island and can only eat one cheese for the rest of your life. What is it? Hands down, Lake's Edge f rom Blue Ledge Farm. I can eat a wedge of that every day forever. What is an underrated cheese that everyone should know about? Firefly Farm Merry Goat Round Spruce Reserve is amazing. It has everything I love about a bloomy goat's milk cheese, but with a layer of complexity f rom the spruce. It also gets creamy quickly, so that spruce wrap helps keep it together. CARMEN LICON, PHD Director, Dairy Products Technology Center, CalPoly San Luis Obispo Director, Pacific Coast Coalition-Dairy Business Innovation Initiative San Luis Obispo, California Dr. Carmen Licon has led CalPoly Dairy Products Technology Center since August 2023. Born and raised in Chihuahua, Mexico, she grew up surrounded by high-quality, authentic dairy products, which sparked her lifelong passion. Educated in Mexico, the United States, Spain, and France, Licon earned her master's and doctorate degrees in agricultural science and food engineering; she also earned accolades for her cheese adventures in Europe, including the creation of a patented hard cheese similar to Manchego that's flavored with saffron spice and has won multiple medals at the World Cheese Awards. Licon is driven by innovation and is on a mission to make dairy dreams come true for artisanal cheesemakers. Who is your biggest inspiration in the cheese world? My greatest inspirations are the anonymous women cheesemakers nestled in the rural landscapes of Mexico, particularly in the Oaxacan region. These remarkable women diligently craft cheese each day, relying solely on manual techniques that are devoid of modern technology or formal education. Their routine begins at the break of dawn as they milk the cows, expertly produce cheese by hand, and then proudly present their creations for sale at the local market to sustain their families. What was your big "aha moment" when you entered this industry? In October 2017, I was a recent food engineer graduate, and I moved to Spain with what I thought was enough cheese knowledge. While visiting a farmers' market in the Murcia region south of Spain, I sampled queso fresco, goat cheese, sheep cheese, Manchego, Murcia al Vino, etc., and within 10 minutes, I realized that every region has its own "cheese world." I wanted to discover as many of those worlds as possible. My primary goal is to educate on various fronts: first, to inform consumers about the diversity of cheese and the challenges of the industry; second, to empower artisanal cheesemakers to make informed decisions grounded in research and science; and third, to engage in applied research activities. You're on a desert island and can only eat one cheese for the rest of your life. What is it? Manchego! I would build an aging room and consume Manchego at multiple stages of ripening (f rom f resh to aged). What is an underrated cheese that everyone should know about? Mexican Quesillo f rom Oaxaca. Quesillo, also known as Oaxaca cheese, is a pasta filata that has the perfect balance of acidity and saltiness that melts in your mouth. It's just perfect. What is a pairing you're ashamed to love? Melted cheese with grilled Anaheim peppers, a typical dish f rom my hometown.

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