Culture Magazine

THE HOT LIS T 2024 culturecheesemag.com 53 Establishing Long-Term Relationships in Cheese The cheesemaking industry has recently achieved two significant milestones: the 20- year anniversaries of Jasper Hill Farm's Cabot Clothbound Cheddar and Murray's Cheese Caves program. Cabot Clothbound is an ode to an English classic with an American spin; Murray's Cheese, known for expert affineuring, joined this union by intentionally selecting each batch of cheddar to ensure each wheel has flavors of almond and candied sweet notes for its catalog. The cheese partnership is an example of a successful model that exemplifies the power of collaborative innovation. "Our entire business model around the [cheese caves] program is about collaboration," says Josh Windsor, senior caves manager at Murray's Cheese. Murray's Cheese has been working with industry leaders such as Jasper Hill for decades, and the partnership continues to grow with the release of Barnstorm Blue, a technically complicated washed-rind blue. Murray's Cheese Caves house wheels f rom around the world, including Switzerland, France, California, and Vermont. The program has evolved f rom simply assisting in aging to leading the direction and flavor that Murray's wants its inventory to possess, explains Lizzie Roller, director of merchandising at Murray's Cheese. Precise goals and clear communication preserve the longevity and trust of these collaborations, Roller says. "It's about honoring all kinds of traditions and marrying different philosophies of cheese together," Windsor continues. "While American cheesemaking is relatively young, approaching the work collectively advances growth and innovation within the industry." CRAFTING PLANT-BASED CHEESES WITH CENTURY-OLD PRACTICES There's often heated debate around what qualifies as cheese. But for Aaron Bullock, founder and CEO of Misha's, a popular California- based company making dairy-free cheese, the answer comes down to technique. Rather than alienating his brand from the cheese industry, Bullock's approach respects the wisdom of dairy experts, and he hopes that the industry can recognize collective similarities in their processes. Misha's started small, gaining popularity at local farmers' markets by catering to customers' preferences and needs. Bullock says he stumbled upon the idea of selling spreadable cheeses after a refrigeration mishap transformed their product into a soft and luscious delight. To perfect the new-found recipe, they visited cheese shops to sample wedges and consulted cheesemakers to master technique, which led them to partner with a dairy co-manufacturer to process their products as the company grew. Misha's is a Black-owned business that aims to mitigate a problem in its community: lactose intolerance. The condition, which makes it difficult to digest sugars found in dairy, affects nearly 80 percent of Black people living in the United States. Bullock champions all styles of cheese and seeks to provide an educational bridge by offering access to plant- based milk and cultures as an introduction to the world of cheese. Since most cheese—especially hard and aged cheeses such as Parmigiano Reggiano and cheddar—contains only small amounts of lactose or is virtually lactose-free, many people with lactose intolerance can still snack on it. Lactose is typically found in whey, which is discarded during the cheesemaking process. The longer a cheese ages, the longer any remaining lactose transforms into lactic acid via fermentation. "Dairy is a complex, wonderful thing; I've enjoyed some with umami, bitter, or layered sweet flavors, and I can't get enough of those crystalized bites, but people shouldn't have to give up cheese because of dietary reasons," Bullock says. As Misha's expands into larger retailers such as Whole Foods, the brand prefers to live in the cheese section as a dairy-free alternative. By implementing classic cheesemaking techniques, Misha's wants to remain in community with the industry. In the future, Bullock aspires to collaborate with cheese shops to carry their products, and with makers to dream up dairy-free masterpieces.

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