Textile Insight

HERE ARE A FEW EXAMPLES OF TODAY'S FORWARD-THINKING APPROACH TO UPPER MATERIALS: textileinsight.com Summer 2024 ~ Textile Insight • 13 In t e r m s of up p e r m at e r i a l s , Nicholson calls attention to bio-based and recycled synthetic yarns for per- formance shoes and hemp in casual applications. Natural Fiber Welding (NFW), for example, is developing a collection of bio-neutral materials for footwear and apparel. "Bio-neutral" is a term the Illinois-based firm uses for things that can return to the earth without harm. NFW's innovations for footwear are Mirum, a plant-based, plastic-free leather alternative; Pliant, a sustainably- sourced natural rubber for outsoles molded with plant-based curatives; and Tunera, a bio-neutral alternative to PVA and TPU foams. Categories to Watch e Functional Fabric Fair held in Portland, OR earlier this Spring featured 139 materials and accessories within the expanded Footwear Forum area. Reporting on the qualities on display, textile expert Alexa Dehmel pointed out footwear upper materials featured in the Synthetic Fabric category including biodegradable polyester mesh and recycled versions of polyester, nylon, polypropylene and polyurethane. Additionally, in the Natural Fabric category, Dehmel highlighted upper textiles such as 100 percent hemp, wool knitted fabric and Abacell, described as a "paper yarn" blend. Also notable in the Spring '24 Footwear Forum was a new category called "Apparel-Inspired Footwear Fabrics." Materials included in this collection were Sherpa jersey made with recycled wool, recycled polyester from textile waste and biodegradable two-layer fabrics with a bio-based nylon membrane made from castor oil. This categor y signals another trend supported by both Nicholson and Dehmel; Brands are developing "platforms" that include materials workable both for garments and shoes. n La Sportiva: e Prodigio PRO, for ultrarunners and trail enthusiasts, features a "Power Wire" mesh upper constructed of a TPU coated polyester and TPU and nylon reinforcement for stiffness, shape and structure. Eco elements include an upper lining made with recycled 3D mesh fabric, and recycled laces. Vasque: From the Re:connect collection, the HERE Mid has 100 percent recycled polyester mesh, 85 percent recycled polyester webbing, and a 60 percent recycled content heel counter. e eco-stylish, warm- weather HERE Mid functions as a light hiker and a good look on city streets. Diadora: A trail debut, the Equipe Sestriere XT, is designed to perform on all natural terrains from grass to rocks. e protective upper features the addition of polyurethane application that extends from the toe box to rear of the shoe for enhanced structure. mōshn: e Vigor has a breathable, comfort stretch upper with a "yoga pants-like" feel, and is designed for post workout recovery. e Smartknit uppers are machine washable. 8000Kicks: e Explorer takes advantage of hemp's super- strong fibers to offer a durable yet comfortable shoe with a sustainability-first approach to minimalist style.

• Cover