Footwear Insight

PFAS are a group of synthetic chemicals used in many consumer products. Toxicity and longevity go hand in hand with PFAS, commonly referred to as "forever chemicals" because they are difficult to break down in the environment. PFAS has long been key to waterproof performance in footwear, as well as fabric treatments and finishes for several decades. "People have known for years that 'forever chemicals' are harmful for the environment and need to be addressed, and now legislation is pushing the timeline for that agenda," states Mark Mathews, VP sales at Scarpa. He ex- plains that Scarpa, a long-time brand partner with W.L. Gore, has been actively working for the last 18 months toward transitioning its current Gore-Tex application to a new Gore-Tex technology. Called ePE, the new expanded Polyethylene (ePE) membrane, free of PFAS chemicals, is light, thin yet strong and has a reduced carbon footprint. All Scarpa run, hike and trail footwear will feature Gore-Tex ePE in 2025. "We were PFAS-free compliant as of January first," explains Mathews. The current market forces in the mar- ketplace have varying levels of influence but together contribute to ongoing shifts in footwear trends. Chad Kelly, eVent fabrics president, explains, "Regulations are a strong focus not only because you have to comply, but in footwear, waterproof performance is critical, and sustainabil- ity is increasingly important." He adds that corporate initiatives and a desire to produce cleaner product is also top of the list. eVent fabrics portfolio includes eVent StormST, formerly eVentBIO, a plant-based membrane technology that uses sustainable materials to provide all-weather protection and performance. Materials solution provider Polartec has eliminated PFAS in its DWR (durable water repellent) treatments across its line of per- formance fabrics. Polartec Power Shield Pro is a weather protection fabric that is made from renewable, non-GMO, plant-based nylon and a non-PFAS membrane. ere is no loss of performance from a water re- pellency or durability standpoint, according to the company. Challenging but Necessary Change Durability and manufacturing ability are major hurdles brands face when phasing out conventional tech and integrating modern eco alternatives. Footwear brings its own list of issues; Construction is complicated, there are different materials and different processes involved as well as long lead times and the need for performance that can stand up to harsh terrain and extreme weather conditions. Cirql, a subsidiary of OrthoLite, recently introduced Cirql Zero, an industrially com- postable, biodegradable foam innovation. "Footwear brands have been searching for a trusted, fully biodegradable midsole material for many years; it's the last piece of the puzzle," explains Matt Thwaites, VP/ General Manager of Cirql. "The midsole has always been a challenge because brands need the performance properties to go with the compostability of a biodegrad- able midsole." Cirql Zero features manufacturing versa- tility. According to the company, the midsole foam can be produced using supercritical foaming (SCF) technology in an autoclave process. is flexibility ensures that Cirql Zero is accessible to a broad range of man- ufacturers, streamlining its integration into existing production processes. Beyond material concerns, another chal- lenge is consumer engagement. At a recent visit to the Arc'teryx Alpha retail store in New York City, textile savvy sales associates noted that their customers are keen on the Norvan LD 3 light hiker, but not because of its ePE Gore-Tex membrane technology. I was told the shoe sells best based on its style and functionality and because it's an Arc'teryx product. When I asked about it being PFAS-free and how that impacts consumer decision-making, I was told, "basically, consumers don't care." is isn't surprising. "e industry is driv- ing the PFAS-free trend, not the consumer," shared Kelly. "And that's okay; the industry needs to fuel innovation and change." n footwearinsight.com January/February 2025 ~ Footwear Insight • 15 Icebug Arcus 2 GTX waterproof running shoe with 24 percent recycled material. Scarpa Rapid XT GTX women's approach shoe, made with non-PFAS ePE membrane. Cirql Zero is a fully-biodegradable midsole component and material solution. "People have known for years that 'forever chemicals' are harmful for the environment and need to be addressed, and now legislation is pushing the timeline for that agenda." MARK MATHEWS, SCARPA "Footwear brands have been searching for a trusted, fully biodegradable midsole material for many years; it's the last piece of the puzzle." MATT THWAITES, CIRQL "The industry is driving the PFAS-free trend, not the consumer. And that's okay, the industry needs to fuel innovation and change." CHAD KELLY, EVENT FABRICS

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