Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaledition.com/i/1532683
C lose to a decade ago, Modern Meadow was a startup in the Brooklyn Navy Yard. Its execs had figured out a way to grow leather in a lab from skin cells that produce collagen. at collagen was turned into leather. It was an innovative idea that brands admired, but unfortunately, was not scalable. e firm pivoted, finding new ways to produce leather-like materials from plant proteins and post-consumer waste. Brands including Tory Burch and Everlane have used its materials in handbags. Modern Meadow's newest development, BIO-VERA has gained traction in the interior design space. BIO-VERA has the look, feel – and even smell – of leather and suede, yet is more sustainable than genuine animal leather and lighter weight. It is recyclable at all stages and the raw material drops into the existing leather industries traditional post-tanning process to reach completion. During my visit to the Modern Meadow's Nutley, NJ lab in December 2024, I witnessed how the firm is right-sizing their capabilities to appeal to more brands in the footwear and accessories space. I saw some of the white suede that was being turned out, which can be very difficult to perfect. Modern Meadow CEO David Williamson, PhD, is bullish on BIO-VERA with a goal to "continue to spread adoption of this new, high-performing material that allows tanneries to create innovative, desirable products for brands." e exec noted that the firm is also expanding global production, establishing facilities to serve regional markets more effectively, especially in Europe. Modern Meadow is also working to meet certification goals, namely to complete ISCC+ to "reinforce supply chain transparency and sustainability benchmarks." Key Learnings in Next-Generation Materials Development Since the 2011 inception of Modern Meadow as a firm committed to using biology, engineering and design to create materials without the use of animals; there have been both challenges and wins. Williamson shares some of his key learnings: Competing with Established Materials "Traditional materials have benefited from decades of development, resulting in exceptional performance and cost efficiency. For next-generation materials to gain traction, they must match—or exceed—existing performance benchmarks while remaining cost- competitive. Brands are hesitant to widely adopt new materials A START-UP GROWS UP The Scalability of Next Gen Materials is an Industry Issue. Modern Meadow is Tweaking its Recipe for Success. By Suzanne Blecher STRATEGIES / NEXT GEN MATERIALS textileinsight.com Modern Meadow's BIO-VERA can be used as a drop-in technology in traditional leather drums.