Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaledition.com/i/1533930
E xecutives shop at trade shows in preparation for future collec- tions. With the Digital Product Passport and European Green Deal in immediate eyesight, the focus is on transparency and traceability. Buyers recognize that sustainability is im- portant, but many are still fixated on price and may lack the knowledge necessary to make the decisions needed to meet upcoming guidelines and regulations. Première Vision Paris Kicking off the European textile show tour, Première Vision, was the first point of call. is show has been regarded as the "Grande Dame" of the fashion industry, with the fashion cognoscenti descending each season and having done so for 50 years, always an inspiration alone, but now there is a shi, driven by the acquisition of PV by GL Events in 2023. Once spreading through six halls, PV now sits in two, covering fabrics, yarns, trims and leather. Gone are many of Europe's leading haute couture textile mills, apart from the dynamic Malhia Kent's eclectic weaves. Where has all the fashion gone? From lin- gerie, to fashion to sportswear, to swimwear and sportswear, the core identity, the "je ne sais quoi" of a show that has been running for the last 50 years had disappeared. Is this a direct reaction to the way consumers now dress, with sportswear becoming the 24/7 uniform? Textile highlights at PV included Pelinova, a next gen material developed by Recyc Leather and Lenzing. It is made by collect- ing leather fibers from pre-consumer waste which are then hydro-projected onto a fabric composed of Tencel Lyocell fibers. A strong educational forum was included in the trend area titled PV ECO-INNOVATION. Plant-based fake fur natural colored wool and cotton were featured, highlighting the savings in dye chemistry and water. Low impact vegetable dyes and alternative stretch materials, from bio-based spandex to me- chanical stretch fabrics, offered new ideas. e trend forum was full of color and prints, with linen a key component for the Spring/Summer 26 season. Meanwhile, Performance Days, the next textile show, was geared towards Fall/Winter 26/27. Performance Days Munich Sustainability and innovation continued to be the focus, with wool making a grand comeback for the sourcing season. Materials in the trend forum were categorized into 13 groups, including three-layer membranes, base layers, workwear, bags, waterproof 2-layer fabrics, wool and others. is season of Performance Days empha- sized the topic "Certifications – Which Ones Matter?" e answer is still to be clarified. Certification is key, but there are so many out there, all coming at a cost to material manufacturers. In today's climate, being without certification(s) is a no-no, especially in Europe with the Digital Product Passport coming in by 2027. e trend area is always a feast of develop- ments, with notable entries in the categories of membranes, safety and durability (in- cluding aramid fibers) and wool, which showed remarkable versatility, being utilized in applications ranging from windbreakers to shirts. Additionally, there was notable growth in materials such as hemp-Lyocell blends, recycled polyamide and multi-com- ponent yarns. Recycled ocean-waste gained RESPONSIBILITY REIGNS Legislation Looms Over the European Trade Show Circuit. By Louisa Smith Attendees peruse fabric options at Première Vision Paris. IN THE MARKET/EURO REPORT 8 • Textile Insight ~ Spring 2025 textileinsight.com