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December 1 • 2016 55
La Rondinella
L
a Rondinella ("swallow" in Italian) is a casual but
exquisite "no red sauce" Italian restaurant perched
on the edge of the historic Eastern Market in Detroit.
When Taste of Ethiopia restaurant departed, David
Mancini was given the first option to rent the corner space
beside his award-winning Supino's Pizza on Russell Street.
Instead of expanding his pizza operation, "I felt I
wanted to try something new and different," said Mancini,
whose first anniversary as owner-chef of La Rondinella
comes in January.
The choice of Italian cuisine came naturally for
Mancini. He learned from his Supino, Italy, immigrant
father and aunts — "fantastic cooks" — and honed his
skills working at Assaggi Bistro in Ferndale and Brooklyn
Pizza in Birmingham.
"I also like Italian wine,"
Mancini said. Bottles at the bar
are on wooden display shelves
from the old gift shop at the
Detroit Historical Museum. The
restaurant's maple floor was
recycled from a school gym.
The suitably urban setting
with large windows includes a
peeling white brick wall, visible
ceiling ductwork and bare bulbs
or stacked bowls for lighting
fixtures.
Customers have made sev-
eral items their favorites on La
Rondinella's fresh, inventive
menu.
Frittelle di Baccala are salt
cod fish fritters in a thick
crunchy batter. The fried balls
are served hot with lemon. The
cool accompanying salsa verdi
sauce is tangy, not spicy.
Polpette are wonderful com-
fort food — lamb, beef and tur-
key meatballs served with mari-
nara sauce, ciabatta bread and
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
I liked Manicini's take on
Gnocchi. His light ricotta cheese
dumplings (like pillows) come
with spinach pesto and curls of
Primo Sale cheese.
Rapa, one of the menu's
five sides, consists of tenderly
cooked turnips, lemon, garlic,
anchovy and pine nuts. I am passionate about this flavor-
ful dish; so clever to add anchovy.
The most creative item, however, was a warm salad.
Grilled escarole greens were topped with trout conserva,
pickled eggplant, tomato-shallot pickle and dried lentils in
a creamy labne vinaigrette. This combination of ingredi-
ents proved unexpectedly delicious.
I finished with a little glass jar of Panna Cotta, a yummy
hazelnut-Frangelico-flavored labne custard (not overly
sweet) with hazelnuts and cocoa nib brittle. Quince
Crostata and gelati are other popular desserts.
Happy ("Aperitivo") Hour at La Rondinella runs 4-6
p.m. Tuesday-Friday and 2-5 p.m. Saturday. Closing time
is at 11 p.m. on those five open days.
*
La Rondinella
2453 Russell
Detroit, MI 48207
Phone:
(313) 567-2051
www.larondinella
detroit.com
$$½ out of $$$$$
Dining Around
The D
Esther Allweiss
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Great Lakes and Rivers Region
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6800 Drake Rd. West Bloomfield, MI 48322
$20 tickets available at the door or in advance at
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Proceeds of this concert will support the Cantors Assembly
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