Textile Insight

September / October 2017

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textileinsight.com To the end-consumer, a complex sustainability process is simplified by brands labeling merchandise with the bluesign product quality seal. piece of all the environmental work if we are going to be attractive to the full textile industry. When a smaller brand comes to us, our first encouragement is to start by asking their mills for bluesign-approved fabrics. This is easy for them if the mill is already a system partner. We have had very small brands source almost their entire collection from bluesign system partners without paying us anything. For the mill, they can also buy access to the bluefinder at a very affordable price and start the process of changing their chemicals. They can do this without becoming a bluesign system partner and start the process this way. For a chemical supplier, they can begin with a certain range of chemicals to assess but they do have to go through the onsite audit before this can happen. As a result, they probably have the least flexibility on the process and cost but we are constantly trying to determine ways for interested companies to begin the process in a way they can handle considering the investment needed in both time and cost." The playing field for certifications has gotten crowded in recent years. What specifically differentiates bluesign? "There are a few unique distinctions. First we are a complete system. As described in the first question, a full supply chain can work in the system with confidence. I have made the analogy before of playing in a sandbox knowing that all of your toys are safe. This frees up all the product development people to focus on the fun part of their jobs around innovation and not worry about the environmental work so much. The next point that has always impressed me about bluesign, and even more now looking from the inside out, is the attention to detail. There isn't a week that goes by that I don't hear a conversation between colleagues that are discussing the finer points of a particular chemical at a specific supplier and what this might mean for everyday use. For example, one conversation I heard last week was around a softener and if it should be allowed for clothes that are meant to be used next to skin or if it was better to be used on outer layer clothes. There is no way a brand can look at this level of detail with the chemicals in their supply chain. An additional big differentiator is the onsite audits that we perform. In addition to assessing the toxicological aspects of the chemicals, we are actually making sure the production of the chemicals is done in a responsible way. If you think of eating in a restaurant that is serving great food, you also want to know that the kitchen is clean where it is being prepared. It wouldn't taste nearly as good if you saw a dirty kitchen sending out a beautiful plate of food." As you've taken the reins as CEO these past six months, what have you learned about bluesign that surprised you? "There are two things that have surprised me. The first is the depth of knowledge that sits in bluesign. We have nearly 80 employees now with deep expertise from the chemical industry, the textile manufacturing industry and brand experience. I started to try to count the years that we have cumulatively and got to several hundred before we all starting feeling old! The other pleasant surprise is to learn how supported bluesign is in the industry. We have system partners that are really committed to seeing bluesign succeed." At this point in your new post, can you elaborate on some of your near term goals for bluesign as well as any future objectives? For example, gaining traction in new/different markets? And/or plans for global expansion? "We are constantly looking at new markets and this is an active part of the strategy we are building. In my short time here, I have had many conversations with people that want us to expand into new markets. We are looking at them all strategically and will have a plan in place by the end of the year. As far as global expansion, we are building up a hub in Asia with employees based there to service the markets better. As our business evolves into different geographic areas, we will definitely find the best way to support those markets as well." O September / October 2017 ~ Textile Insight • 21 A full supply chain can work in the system with confidence. I have made the analogy before of playing in a sandbox knowing that all of your toys are safe.

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