Running Insight

84 runninginsight.com ©2017 Formula4media LLC. UNDER ARMOUR HOVR SONIC Creating uppers that complement shoe function, Under Armour uses an engineered flat knit weave and an inner mesh arch-wrap to produce a sportier ride in its high- performance HOVR Sonic model. In contrast, its luxury-model HOVR Phantom gets a stretchier circu- lar knit upper with bra- and bike chamois-inspired Speedform mold- ing wrapping the heel and arch. it doesn't affect fit and flexibility nearly as much as the old inner "bootie" construction. Image is Everything Not to be overlooked is the role the upper plays from the moment the customer sees a shoe. "The upper is also about looks and signaling," says Allemann. "We always talk about function, but there is a psychological factor as well—what does it do for your perceived notion of how the shoe runs." A well-designed upper will not only be congruent with the sole and its function but also in what type of psychological profile it signals with its appearance. "Even before they run a step, even in their hands, people are making a judgment," says White. Knitting and engineering processes that reduce the need for overlaid layers are also helping to create cleaner designs that match the demand for product that doesn't scream "running shoe" but can be worn all day. At the same time, designers have more freedom and ability to create uppers that say "plush" or "fast" or "tough." Letting the Foot Lead More than anything, shoe designers are recognizing how every thread in an upper can affect the entire feel of a shoe, and new materials and processes are allowing them to focus on each individual thread. Additionally, the focus of upper design is increasingly moving away from control to functional comfort. "We want it to be as intuitive as possible—that's how it is supposed to feel, that's what my foot is shaped like," says Ingram. "We want the best foot hold possible while allowing natural motion, to allow your foot to be a foot." As designers play with new materials, construction and geometry, fit and function are moving into a new era. "We're now speaking to what the foot really wants. It's about proper movement, being efficient, and not restraining the foot," says Garza. "It's going to be a very beautiful experience." n

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