Footwear Insight

sole, for example, while it might ruin the fast feel of a racing flat. "We're trying to get more to the full, organic softness or firmness, holistically across the shoe," Ingram says. As designers discuss models in their line, one notices a u-curve of desired support along the "more shoe" to "less shoe" axis. Heavier shoes, designed for runners who have excess foot movement, need a more controlling upper. Lighter, less structured shoes tend to have uppers that allow the foot to move more — until you cross into racing shoes, where you again find more controlling uppers with tight, non-stretchy fabrics designed to eliminate slip and transfer all power to forward momentum. White points out that this varia- tion not only reflects desired feel but the reality of forces being created by different soles. "The more flexible the sole is, the more it moves with your foot, and the less structure you need in the upper to hold your foot on," he says. Their highly-flexible Everun sole, for example, com- presses and conforms on landing, rather than torqueing, and the sole stays with the foot during the toe off, which allows for flexible, free upper designs. Trail shoe uppers have the same design challenges as road models, with the added complication of needing to hold the foot on the sole despite lateral forces from uneven terrain and sharp changes in direction. Plus, trail uppers need to protect feet from a greater array of elements and physical dangers. Innovations include the introduction of Kevlar fibers into upper weaves for durability, and a new waterproof Gore membrane technology that is bonded to the shoe's upper so it doesn't affect fit and flexibility nearly as much as the old inner "bootie" construction. Image is Everything Not to be overlooked is the role the upper plays from the moment the customer sees a shoe. "The upper is also about looks and sig- naling," says Allemann. "We always talk about function, but there is a psychological factor as well — what does it do for your perceived notion of how the shoe runs?" A well-designed upper will not only be congruent with the sole and its function but also in what type of psychological profile it signals with its appearance. "Even before they run a step, even in their hands, people are making a judgment," says White. Knitting and engineering pro- cesses that reduce the need for overlaid layers are also helping to create cleaner designs that match the demand for product that doesn't scream "running shoe" but can be worn all day. At the same time, designers have more freedom and ability to create uppers that say "plush" or "fast" or "tough." More than anything, shoe design- ers are recognizing how every thread in an upper can affect the entire feel of a shoe, and new materi- als and processes are allowing them to focus on each individual thread. Additionally, the focus of upper design is increasingly moving away from control to functional comfort. "We want it to be as intuitive as pos- sible — that's how it is supposed to feel, that's what my foot is shaped like," says Ingram. "We want the best foot hold possible while allowing natural motion, to allow your foot to be a foot." A s designers play with new materials, construction and geom- etry, fit and function are moving into a new era. "We're now speak- ing to what the foot really wants. It's about proper movement, being efficient, and not restraining the foot," says Garza. "It's going to be a very beautiful experience."O NEW BALANCE: HIERRO v3 (top) New Balance combines a flexible, stretch-mesh inner booty with a stretchy film HypoSkin outer layer that has data-mapped laser cut slits to provide additional flexibility where desired in a shoe designed to adapt to the swelling foot during ultra-long runs. ON: CLOUDFLYER (center) The unique star-shaped lacing system aims to lock the foot securely where most needed to enhance the force transfer from foot to the ground, while the rest of the engineered-mesh upper has been simplified to comfortably wrap the foot and work with the outsole to support each individual gait. TOPO: Runventure 2 (bottom) Designed to allow the foot and ankle their full range of motion on the trail rather than attempt to restrict and control, Topo's upper foregoes the typical rigid heel counter for a soft, stretchy heel that hugs the shoe to the foot with a contoured fit and a small foam Achilles wrap. footwearinsight.com January/February 2018 ~ Footwear Insight • 61

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