Textile Insight

March/April 2018 ~ Textile Insight • 11 textileinsight.com IN THE MARKET | LEATHER Innovation Italian Style Getting Schooled in the Craft and Science of Leather Making 5 TRENDS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2019 LEATHER GOODS Chiara Fantig, a fashion analyst, gave a trend presentation created by the Lineapelle Fashion Committee headed by creative director Antonella Bertagnin. She noted that S/S'19 season explores cleanliness and tactile emotions. "New developments look to basics. High-performance and flexible basics that bring together nature and technology, perfect to be interpreted both by more fashion-forward products and by the most popular sportcore." Liquid shine, opalescent effects, light stratifications of processes and shades. Grains from micro to macro, also celebrated on summer doubles. The season is certainly colorful, but toned down when alternated with neutrals. Chromatic harmonies will be more interesting than color ranges. What to Watch: Indian yellow and Swedish blue, Tibetan orange and French grey, intermingled with nude tones that extend to dark brown used as a new black. articipants at a recent seminar found out first hand that there is more to leather than meets the eye as they inspected samples with a special magnifier to learn about different grain patterns. Held during Lineapelle New York, a bi-annual international leather trade exhibition, the "Know Your Leather" seminar was led by expert train- ing manager Alessandra Siena from the Italian Tanner's Association. Buyers, designers, manufacturers and press were treated to an afternoon "Leather 101" type class as Siena educated the group on everything from raw materi- als to special finishing effects. "This is a complex material, and the cycle of leather production is long and very complicated," said Siena as she passed dozens of leather samples around the room. Siena stressed the importance of leather's unique fiber structure and how this relates to the materials' inherent functional properties. For example, leather's natural layered structure allows for flexibility, mechanical resistance, and adaptability to climate changes. "Leather breathes, and is provides water and thermal insulation," noted Siena, adding, "This compact fiber structure allows for better technical properties." The approximately 150 participants got to see and feel a variety of leathers made from cattle, but also goat, lamb, sheep, pig and even kangaroo and enjoyed learn- ing identifying characteristics of each animal, in addition to how to recognize finished articles, such as nubuck, suede, glazed, milled grain and laminated. The leather making process from preparation to tanning through to end product was also discussed, with focus on the main tanning systems (chrome tanning, vegetable tanning, white tanning), post-tanning operations (re-tanning, dyeing and colors, and finishing and looks (effects, techniques, achievable properties). Siena introduced the audience to leather terminology. A good word to know, for instance is "fatliquring," defined as introducing within the leather structure types of agents – synthetic or natural – with the aim of lubricating the fiber to enhance softness and other characteristics. Throughout the lecture Siena outlined Italy's strength in leather goods. According to 2016 data, Italy is home to 1,218 leather companies, concentrated in the Veneto region, with total employment of upwards of 18,000 and production monetary value of 5BEuro Footwear is the largest sector representing 42 percent of Italy's produc- tion, followed by leather goods (24 percent), upholstered furniture (16 percent), automotive (11 percent), clothing and gloves (5 percent). Technology & Tradition Leather also featured in New York City earlier this winter when the Italian Trade Agency hosted a press conference and daylong exhibit of Italian Footwear and Leather Goods in the USA. According to organizers, Made in Italy products represent the third largest marketplace in the leather industry and the fourth largest in the shoe industry, with significant volumes of growth observed in the first semester of 2017 (+5 percent for footwear and +8.4 percent for leather goods, highlighting market share increases for shoes and leather goods. (Italian research firms AIMPES and Assocalzaturifici served as joint sponsors of the NYC trade gathering and supplied data, in addition to data supplied by U.S customs reports.) During the event, representatives presented on the topic of "New technologies and traditional competences, research, experimentation and education in the world of footwear and leather goods." Guest speakers Professor Stefano Miotto (Politecnico Calzaturiero del Brenta) and Professor Valerio Dori (Alta Scuola di Pelletteria Italiana di Scandicci) discussed the evolution and advancement of innovation that characterizes Italian production as well as the tradition and expertise that distinguish Made in Italy products. Professor Miotto outlined the history and strengths of the District of Riviera del Brena. For example, foot- wear production in Veneto dates back to the year 1268, and continues now seven centuries later. "There isn't another structured and complete district in the world like the Riviera del Brenta. There is a complete supply chain, so it is possible to produce prototypes in a short time," says Miotto. He also mentioned how companies have been able to maintain work in the area and pay great attention to engaging young people. T h e s c h o o l , P o l i t e c n i c o Calzaturiero del Brenta, is consid- ered a driver of innovation, keeping pace with the times by advancing rapid prototyping, rapid retooling and rapid manufacturing, using new technologies like 3D printing and 3D scanners. Another highlight is the school's "Factory of the Future," called FabLab, a laboratory open to the public, equipped with machines for digital manufacturing. It's a place where individuals and busi- nesses have access to equipment, processes and people capable of transforming ideas into prototypes and products, said Miotto. O P

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