Textile Insight

Investing in Innovation Investment has allowed Westerly, RI-based Darlington Fabrics to compete with Asia mills that have brand new everything, explains Steve Perry, president. It was a gutsy financial decision because while there was lots of discussion about bringing manufacturing back, Perry estimates there was maybe 25 percent commitment at the time. "We felt we had to take the plunge. We've had some wins along the way and since 2013 we've had a significant uptick in business." New hardware also brought a new collaborative outlook at Darlington. A good example is a partnership with Nitific, a third party color certifier that has boosted efficiencies. "At least two weeks are shaved off the lead time," states Darlington's Carol Gross. "It's all done digitally. We don't lose time submitting color lots; we are pre-approved to ship." Working together with other domestic vendors to fill gaps in the U.S. supply chain has also proved beneficial. "We don't live in our respective silos anymore," says Perry who values membership in the American Apparel Producers Network (AAPN) and also gives a shout out to a fledgling local Rhode Island Textile Innovation Network (RITIN). "The textile community has figured out that being in individual silos is not beneficial." These days the firm is experiencing growth in niche businesses. While activewear remains a sales driver for Darlington, success in non- apparel applications like post surgical wraps, braces and industrial end use is on the rise. Perry states, "I'm more optimistic about the textile industry than ever before.' Investment is part of the DNA of Quantum, a North Carolina company that has been ahead of the curve in its innovation model. "Everything we do is custom," states Jeff Bruner, company founder and chief technology officer. "Because of this we don't have a manufacturing facility that has standing looms or machines waiting for the next order. Each and every loom is dedicated to a specific customer or project." Bruner's problem solving approach dates back decades when he saw an opportunity to invent a new fabric technology – synthetic elastomeric suspension fabric – that helped launch his business, and continues to fuel sales today in new applications. He states, "To be a leader and on the forefront of innovation, you have to be fast, willing to take risks and collaborate with customers to understand their challenges. Our customers are the key to our success – we see them as partners and because the way our manufacturing platform is set up, at times, can be considered an extension to their operations." To that end Quantum has invested in R&D, acquired new technologies and even made custom machine modifications to streamline production as part of the collaborative process with a customer. This effort resulted in reducing a four-step process into one machine at Quantum's facility. With Quantum's ability to create cutting edge performance knits and wovens that feature attributes like breathability, durability and stretch, the company is finding traction in the active/outdoor market. Quantum has a joint patent with adidas, and has recently applied for patents of its own regarding a new technology for woven constructions and one for 3D knitting, both incorporate features including "zoned support," suitable for a range of different sport applications. Like textile suppliers, brands, too, are embracing manufacturing methods to meet market needs. Kirk Smith, director of manufacturing, has been leading the way with LEAN training at Darn Tough Vermont, in Northfield, VT. Smith came to Darn Tough after a 33-year tenure with IBM holding a number of positions within engineering and manufacturing both as an individual contributor and management positions. "My last seven years at IBM were spent working on the Lean Transformation Team as IBM realized to remain competitive we needed to do something different," Smith explains. Lean 101 training kicked off in May 2016 with VMEC (Vermont Manufacturing Extension Center) providing the training facilitation. Over the course of the next 12 months 100-150 employees trained in Lean 101. Additional training in problem solving and value stream mapping also occurred and taking place while Darn Tough doubled employee population. "To expand depth of understanding we also started book clubs where groups of employees would have weekly reading assignments and then come together to discuss the material," says Smith, adding, "It really must be a cultural system running through every department and touching every employee. It is the way the organization does its work." Last fall the company formally launched the DTPS (Darn Tough Performance System) and are moving forward to construct "pillars" which support how work gets done. To this point this effort has been achieved in Safety, 5S, Continuous Skills Development, Continuous Improvement, and Supply Chain Optimization. Educational Endeavors Industry partnership with academia is a long-standing tradition. According to the Association of University Technology Managers (AUTM) industry introduced roughly 900 new products to the market 20 • Textile Insight ~ March/April 2018 THE MAKE: MANUFACTURING TAILORED FOR FACTORIES OF THE FUTURE "We get orders Monday morning and can ship Monday afternoon. If a customer needs fabric tomorrow we can put it on a plane and get it there. That's our model." Jeff Bruner, Quantum

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