Textile Insight

TRENDSETTER | INTIMATES Meghan Marsden & Nancy Trangmar Advance Intimates with Bra Cup Innovation. By Suzanne Blecher May/June 2018 ~ Textile Insight • 41 textileinsight.com Bosom Buddies eil Intimates was born when two friends shopping at a lingerie store sale found that no matter which bra they purchased, something was missing. Whether comfort, aesthetic or support, no bra had it all. So, as consumers with no apparel background, Meghan Marsden and Nancy Trangmar (Nancy's sister Kathy Heimann manages firm finances) decided to have a hand at foundation innovation. Only later did they find that bras are pretty much the most arduous design task out there. Textile Insight updates their progress. You help apparel firms incorporate bra cups into their garments, correct? Meghan: "Yes, in short. Veil Intimates has created a technology that's been integrated into bra cups as a new way to support women that's comfortable but also allows for great aesthetic. We utilize 3D printing for a mass customized approach for support. Instead of an underwire, which, outside of gauge changes and slight increases in centimeters, is expected to support a woman who is a 32B in the same way as a woman who is a 32DD, we've created this product where you can't even tell it's there. It just feels slightly firmer and supports throughout the entire cup." What were your first steps in delving into the intimates industry? Meghan: "Through our naiveté, we started investigating. We went to MAGIC and talked to manufacturers. We made appointments in Los Angeles and talked to people manufacturing intimates there. We just thought that there has to be a better way. There are emerging brands — which is phenomenal — but the innovations are just slight modifications on existing technology. Whether via better straps or a better curved underwire, they aren't really challenging the bra in total. If they are, it's usually just a better-looking sports bra using compression at the demise of beauty. So, we thought we could just, as we now know, improve on the most challenging piece of apparel out there." How did you find 3D printing and decide to go that route? Meghan: "We stumbled into it. We were trying to make a better cup shape. We initially worked with people in aerospace and in biomedical 3D printing. We took the approach of a bra as an engineering feat and did simulations in the same programs used for rocket ships. In simulations, we could see where all of the pain points are in wearing a bra and our technology helped alleviate those pain points." Nancy: "Then we approached the Fashion Institute of Technology. We recognized that our deficit was in not having an apparel background. We wanted to be sure that in moving forward in talking with companies that we had enough knowledge, testing and the necessary tech packs to show that it did what we were trying to accomplish. We now have a contract with FIT and are in the midst of our comfort studies. When we are finished, we'll have a product to share with brands, hopefully by mid-summer." Are you speaking with any brands currently? Meghan: "Yes, we've had high level conversations with some very large brands. Our idea always was to license the technology and not necessarily build our own brand around it in an already crowded market. We just want to change what women can wear. We've also spoken to a few licensing firms in New York in foundations, activewear and formalwear. We've also been approached by emerging brands. We are currently doing fit sessions with fit models." How will consumers know that the bra cup is different? Meghan: "The goal would be to have a hangtag with our name. Ingredient branding. They would also put it on and they would just know! It's more comfortable than an underwire, because it has no wire, and it doesn't look as unfortunate as a non-underwire. Once you put it on, you know it isn't stabbing you in the ribs." You also have aspirations in bespoke design? Meghan: "Part of our long-term strategy and where 3D comes in handy, will be to get women fitted digitally. As technology gets better, we think it can be done in the next ten years. It would be great to be customized since most women are asymmetrical. It would also be beneficial for women who have had surgical procedures." Will your technology alter the price of a garment? Meghan: "If there is a price increase, it would be nominal. Currently in the market, a lot of the channeling for underwire is hand-stitched traditionally, meaning there can be error in the manufacturing process. Because we already have a bra cup and brands will be integrating our technology, they won't have to sew on the channel or use the wire, allowing for ease in putting on the frame, stabilizer and straps on the back. The entire support mechanism is integrated into our cups. Anywhere there's a cup, this could be incorporated into brand's existing lines." Why are bras such a tough nut to crack? Nancy: "We've seen that foundation houses do not have a lot of engineering within. Designers are working on getting the next season's designs ready. Activewear is doing more in biomechanics, though mostly through compression. What woman who is an athlete wants to compress the lungs or limit air intake? Then there are women who even wear two to three sports bras to work out so they aren't in pain." Meghan: "It's challenging because each one of us has a different shape and we fluctuate throughout the day. We have put up with this garment and not pressed for something better. We want comfort and we want aesthetics. It's time." O Nancy Trangmar Meghan Marsden

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