Textile Insight

IN THE MARKET | PERFORMANCE DAYS Engineering Functional Fabric Duality Combined with Color & Creativity. By Louisa Smith 6 • Textile Insight ~ May/June 2018 textileinsight.com or functional fabrics designated for the sports and outdoors markets as seen at Performance Days in Munich, the message is clear: Sustainability is par for the course. New developments are featured, but the focus is on injecting creativity and innovation into the market. Cooling fibers and finishes are becoming an integral part of how brands deliver added function to the consumer. What is interesting with cool touch technology is that brands do not need to elaborately story-tell to the consumer, as this function can be physically felt at retail. Sensil Breeze nylon 6.6 yarn not only offers the cooling effect but also UV protection. Schoeller has developed a phase change print to add to its multifunctional fabric base including UV protection and odor management, while HeiQ's Smart Temp finish, added through padding in the textile stage, offers cooling only when it is needed — the cooling function activates as the body heats up. Rising body temperature also means sweating, and consequently garments that stink after high-level activity. Yarns and finishes that block the development of odor, keeping sports apparel fresher for a longer period of time, were showcased at Performance Days. This is key for the active sector, as today's consumer is looking for increased versatility, or "wearability," in their wardrobe choices. An additional plus to this sought after performance sector is the sustainable aspect of less home washing. Polygiene has been quick to highlight through the analysis of the LCA of a garment revealing that it is the consumer who is two-thirds responsible for the garment's environmental impact of a garment, not the textile industry. With a tag line of "Wear More. Wash Less," Polygiene is communicating with brands and consumers alike about the time saving, and money saving that can be achieved. Polygiene data shows that nine days a year could be saved, plus a saving in monetary terms on water and energy if a garment is treated with Polygiene's odor control technology. For consumers this means high performance gear offering comfort and performance without the malodor, combined with a sustainable story. Innovations in Texture & Touch The latest textile developments bring a new level of creativity and innovation in fabrics. With comfort and performance delivered, textile manufacturers are now switching focus onto a more imaginative process as color becomes much more energetic in use. New collections of double sided fabrics, in knits and wovens, feature contrasting textures and colors along with performance. The increased development of double sided fabrics pushes toward greater flexibility at the garment design stage, and affords a more efficient garment for the consumer through reversibility and integrated performance. New dimensions of surface textures are also being explored with double knits, spacer fabrics and bonded mesh. Additionally, high density woven fabrics advance with performance prints on the technical side. Hybrids developments for base layer were also favored at April's Performance Days in Munich, as seen in merino wool blends with synthetics for lightweight natural touch. Portuguese knitter A Sampaio offered merino wool with nylon and organic cotton. Spandex featured in a merino wool and polyester blend in a soft pointelle structure. Denim continues to make strides in performance with sophisticated blends and constructions. Pontetorto's merino/polyester/spandex denim knit French Terry structure is a case in point. The denim is soft to touch with the inclusion of merino wool for odor management combined with four-way stretch and UV protection. Leading denim manufacturer ISKO has also set its sights on the sports market with the newly launched Arquas range. This platform of technical denim applications targets active, outdoor, hybrid and lifestyle markets with features that include water repellency, UV protection, thermal insulation, anti-odor, shape retention and recovery power. The appeal of the ingredients and functions in the collections at Performance Days confirms the pursuit of new markets, as technology and know-how crosses boundaries in creating added value to final products — something the consumer will appreciate. O F A New Efficiency 2020 TOP TRENDS SPRING/SUMMER Cooling fabrics yarns, finishes and prints Double-sided fabrics Yarn dyed colorways, prints, contrasting double-faced textures and tones High-density fabrics - super lightweight Efficient textile processing Odor management & UV protection Innovative surface structures in 3D effects Pontetorto's nylon/poly blend highlights the season's focus on contrasting color and textures.

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