Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaledition.com/i/1510018
have access to sustainable, affordable apparel— this is something that is critically important and top of mind for both teams as we work together on our initial pilot partnership," Neeka insists. According to the sisters, Rubi's technology holds the potential to create planet-positive products beyond textiles, such as building materials, packaging, and food; creating a world where global supply chains are symbiotic with the planet. Recipe for Endless Plastic Recycling Samsara Eco, an Australian startup described as an "enviro-tech," has found a way to infinitely recycle plastic by using enzymes. e company's proprietary technology creates bespoke enzymes to break down plastic polymers into their monomers, or original building blocks. e monomers can then be used to create virgin-quality plastic products. "Our process is infinite because through reverting complex polymers into simple monomers, we can make new, virgin-grade plastics without ever needing fossil fuels again. A truly circular process," says CEO Paul Riley. Samsara Eco's technology is applicable to mixed plastics and fibers, in- cluding polyester, nylon 6,6, polypropylene, and polyurethane. Samsara Eco launched in 2021 in partner- ship with the Australian National University (ANU), whose Jackson Lab/Research School of Chemistry are global leaders in enzyme-based depolymerization. Current mechanical and chemical recycling technologies for fossil fuel-based textiles are considered inadequate; the bulk of rPET used in textiles comes from bottles. Repeated mechanical recycling of textiles results in poor quality fibers that are eventually down-cycled; while chemical recycling requires the use of solvents and high heat. "Samsara's enzymatic process is a low- heat and low-pressure process delivering a virgin equivalent polymer, with a carbon footprint substantially lower than virgin plastic while also meeting market price. e Samsara enzymatic process separates out any contamination including colors and additives, allowing for the recycling of a wider range of feedstocks. is includes our ability to process mixed polymer garments and deliver fiber to fiber recycling," notes Riley. In late 2022, Samsara Eco raised $56M in its Series A funding, which is being used to fund its first R&D facility, to be located in regional New South Wales. "We are in the process of scaling up our operations and hope to produce our first enzymatically recycled clothing at a small scale in the next 18 months," says Riley. Activewear brand Lululemon has taken a minority stake in Samsara Eco, and will partner with the company to create infinitely recyclable textiles, with the focus on polyester and nylon 6,6. "Nylon 6,6 is one of the textile and fashion industries' most commonly used materials because its complex chemical structure makes it very versatile and resilient," explains Riley. "But it's also difficult to break down and recycle." Samsara Eco is also looking into expanding its operations into Europe and North America. Currently creating polyester fiber in its pilot plant, the company's goal is to create enough capacity to recycle 1.5 million metric tons of plastic annually by 2030. In conclusion, achieving circularity within the textile industry begins with innovative technologies such as these. "We must recognize that all materials have impacts, and that none are inherently good or bad. Instead, how materials are sourced and managed will determine their true impact," writes Jon Smieja, VP Circularity for GreenBiz Group, in Circularity Weekly. n Tandem Repeat's first garment featuring Squitex blended with cotton. TECHNOLOGY / CLOSING THE LOOP 22 • Textile Insight ~ Fall 2023 textileinsight.com