Textile Insight

Fall 2023

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synthetic fibers do. 12 According to a 2019 study commissioned by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and conducted by the University of Newcastle Australia, humans could even be ingesting, on average, a credit card's worth of plastic every week. 13 This is a concerning statistic, enough to force many of us to take pause. In fact, Cotton Incorporated's 2022 Denim and Sustainability Consumer Survey showed that 61 percent of respondents said they feel it is "very important for the clothing industry to improve garment end-of-life by designing clothes to biodegrade, recycle or otherwise divert from landfills." Biodegradability offers many benefits to the health of the world around us by helping to reduce waste, reduce microplastic pol- lution, and conserve resources. Meanwhile, cotton, as a biode- gradable fiber, has the potential power to help reduce the envi- ronmental impact of the textile industry as a whole. When Cotton Becomes Compost Cotton composting is an exciting new concept that also supports cotton's place in a circular economy. This innovative, sustainable practice is also on target to revolutionize waste management methods in the textile and apparel industries. Within 90 days, cotton textile scraps, garments, and manufacturing by-products can be transformed into nutrient- rich organic matter that can enhance soil structure and health, increase soil's capability to hold water, and sequester more carbon into the soil. It would take any synthetic material much longer to transform in this way. 1114 A more nutrient- rich soil with improved water retention qualities leads to a healthier, more plentiful yield of crops. 15 Meanwhile, sequestering more carbon into the soil can further support the reduction of methane emissions and reduce the release of harmful greenhouse gases (GHGs) into the air. This could result in a decreased rate of global warming and less extreme weather cycles caused by climate change. 16 Additionally, cotton composting contributes to the reduction of waste in our landfills. Landfills, by nature, create a high rate of GHG production. By freeing up more space in our landfills, composting can affect positive change throughout our environment. 17 The composting process involves placing cotton materials in a specific, controlled environment that uses bacteria, oxygen, and designated temperatures to eliminate germs and the seeds of weeds. 15 While the logistics of cotton composting still present some challenges (for example, it can be complicated and expensive to collect, sort, and transport cotton textiles at the end of their useful lives, and ensure they are free from any synthetic materials), this practice has the potential for a positive environmental impact that could likely outweigh any obstacles. 18 New Recycling Methods Reduce Waste, Increase Landfill Space Many textile manufacturers who prioritize environmental health are aiming to create textile products out of more recycled cotton content, without compromising quality. New recycling technologies can now produce higher-quality recycled cotton yarns and fabrics while being able to handle blends and post-consumer waste. 19 Of the 13.1 million tons of textiles sent to American landfills or incinerated, 35 percent is currently recyclable, and another 45 percent could be recycled with advanced technologies. Commercial-scale U.S. trials were conducted in 2021 through early 2023 to demonstrate the feasibility and value of current recycling processes, and to promote cost-effective circular textile supply chains. 20 Improving and integrating both mechanical and chemical textile recycling technologies into the manufacturing process can help transform textile waste into "new" raw materials and keep it out of landfills. Cotton Helps Complete the Circle The goal of reaching a sustainable balance with nature through circularity has inspired exciting innovations in the textile industry, and manufacturers aren't stopping now. Even though recycling cotton textiles can pose challenges, research and development to overcome these obstacles are ongoing, as manufacturers and brands commit to improving and scaling up recycling technologies. While the environmental impacts of circular practices still need to be measured to confirm whether they are truly beneficial, cotton's durability, biodegradability, and ability to effectively and efficiently be composted into nutrient-rich soil amendments make it a natural fit for circular solutions. n Sources 1. University of Alberta (2021). What Is Sustainability? https://www.mcgill.ca/sustainability/files/sustainability/what-is-sustainability.pdf 2. EPA (2019). Textiles: Material-Specific Data. https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/textiles-material-specific-data 3. Science Advice for Policy by European Academies (2020). Biodegradability of Plastics in the Open Environment, p. 125. https://www.sapea.info/wp-content/uploads/bop-report.pdf 4. Sullivan L (2020). How Big Oil Misled the Public Into Believing Plastic Would Be Recycled. https://www.npr. org/2020/09/11/897692090/how-big-oil-misled-the-public-into-believing-plastic-would-be-recycled 5. EPA (2021). Plastics: Material-Specific Data. https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/plastics-material-specific-data 6. Hale RC, Seeley ME, La Guardia MJ, Mai L, Zeng EY (2020). A global perspective on microplastics. JGR Oceans 125:e2018JC014719. https://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1029/2018JC014719 7. EPA (2020). What You Should Know About Microfiber Pollution. https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2020-07/documents/article_2_microfibers.pdf 8. Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2021). Redesigning the Future of Fashion. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/topics/fashion/overview 9. National Geographic. Microplastics. https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/microplastics/ 10. Zambrano M, et al. (2020). Aerobic biodegradation in freshwater and marine environments of textile microfibers generated in clothes laundering: Effects of cellulose and polyester-based microfibers on the microbiome https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0025326X19309828?via%3Dihub 11. Li L, Frey, M, Browning K. (2010). Biodegradability Study on Cotton and Polyester Fabrics https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267243642_Biodegradability_Study_on_Cotton_and_Polyester_Fabrics 12. IUCN (2017). Invisible plastic particles from textiles and tyres a major source of ocean pollution – IUCN study. https://www.iucn.org/news/secretariat/201702/invisible-plastic-particles-textiles-and-tyres-major-source-ocean-pollution-%E2%80%93-iucn-study 13. The University of Newcastle Australia: University News (2019). Plastic ingestion by people could be equating to a credit card a week. https://www.newcastle.edu.au/newsroom/featured/plastic-ingestion-by-people-could-be-equating-to-a-credit-card-a-week 14. Rynk R, et al. (2021). The Composting Handbook (1st Edition), Academic Press, page 5. 15. U.S. Composting Council(R): Compost Definition. https://www.compostingcouncil.org/general/custom.asp?page=CompostDefinition 16. USDA.gov. Nature's Benefits: Carbon Sequestration. https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd545181.pdf 17. Perez T, Vergara S, Silver W. (2023). Assessing the climate change mitigation potential from food waste composting. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-023-34174-z 18. Cotton Today (2023). Cotton to Compost: Transform Waste Management in the Textile Industry. https://cottontoday.cottoninc.com/cotton-to-compost-transform-waste-management-textile-industry/ 19. Hugill R, Ley K, Rademan K. (2020). Coming full circle: Innovating towards sustainable man-made cellulosic fibres. Fashion for Good, p. 15. https://fashionforgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Coming-Full-Circle-Innovating-Towards-More-Sustainable-MMCFs.pdf 20. Accelerating Circularity (2021). Putting Textiles to Good Use. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5e434df1c42dd46de2822ab1/t/60f7272fa8a12b6232ac92a4/1626810160140/Putting+Textiles+to+Good+Use+210720.pdf C M Y CM MY CY CMY K OR-R1B-18.375x84.625.pdf 1 5/23/23 4:16 PM Fall 2023 ~ Textile Insight • 41

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