Textile Insight

T he circularity movement is energizing innovation in the active apparel and footwear space, with the latest develop- ments in eco-centric materials and regenerative fibers leveling up new product offerings. From carbon capture technologies and bio-based fabrications to items designed for longevity, sustainable activewear is not only coming of age, but forging a bright future. "We're just scraping the surface of innova- tion when it comes to circularity" remarked Rachel Gentner, Fashion Snoops' director of active, in a recent webinar on the topic. Gentner, along with colleagues Nia Silva, materials director, and director of color Joanne omas, touched on numerous trends and technologies paving the way forward in circular activewear, highlighting traceability tech, brands' rewear programs, bio-alterna- tive materials and colors sourced from "new naturals" like bacteria, sunflowers and algae as directional advances. e execs provided key takeaways from their presentations. Regarding circular design, Gentner called attention to items built to last, created for future resale value, and produced deliberately for disassembly—making them easier to repair, replace, and recycle. In the category of circular materials, Silva was impressed by brands radically transforming existing manufacturing processes, and efforts being made to create a supply chain that is more ecologically sound. And omas emphasized how ethical and regenerative color create stronger bonds with nature, foster harmony, and nurture a healthier environment. Proof of industry interest in circular active- wear was evident in the number of questions and comments from webinar attendees. "is has been one of the most active chats of any webinar we've done," Gentner commented. Circular Design A new bill endorsed by the EU Commission calls for all items to have a Digital Product Passport (DPP) that will collect and share data of the product's life cycle and serve as a "digital twin." Gentner said she believes this is a "game-changer" in how products are created and purchased by consumers. (See Page 7, for more on DPP tech transparency.) Upcycling and repurposing is another big trend. According to Gentner, more brands are getting consumers involved in the circular economy with programs designed for selling or renewing worn garments and footwear. She used Pangaia's Rewear program and Peak Performance's new "SustainaBold" capsule collection made from upcycled fabric as prime examples of this trend on the apparel side. ere's plenty of footwear makers also on a mission to reuse, repair, and recycle product. For instance, Adidas' Made to ReMade initiative and Salomon's Index 2.0 shoe, which comes complete with user instructions on how to dissemble the shoe for recycling. e Swiss brand On is an early adopter of footwear subscription services. "e most effective method to promote circularity is not to create anything new," remarked Gentner, quickly adding, "But that's a tough ask for an industry based on making new stuff." However, designing for a smaller footprint — for example the new SuperNatural running shoe from French brand Circle is made entirely within a local supply chain, and British brand Finisterre's wetsuit rental pro- gram, which features Yulex, an eco-alternative to neoprene — are big steps in the industry's sustainability journey. Circular Materials "Carbon capture is a huge topic of discus- sion," said Silva, who stressed how today's "Carbon Revolution" is driving innovation in different categories, ranging from sequestered carbon fibers and carbon captured inks to carbon tracking. Silva called out Rubi Labs' recent collaboration with Walmart focused on advancing carbon capture technology as an important development. (See page 20 Technology story for an in-depth look at Rubi Labs.) Examples of the other carbon technologies gaining traction include Allbirds' practice of labeling carbon footprint counts on its sneakers, and how Adidas is featuring carbon captured inks, supplied by the company OCO, in Adidas' new line of Terrex footwear. In the emerging category of Bio-Alternatives, Silva spoke about Polybion, a new product that uses fruit waste as a leather substitute. Beyond recent developments using mushrooms and algae for active materials, Silva introduced a newer trend taking shape with bio-based 3D printing for injection molding. She also men- tioned advances from Checkerspot, notably a collaboration with WNDR Alpine that features Checkerspot's miDori sustainable moisture wicking finish on garments. Last but not least, the emerging trend of Conscious Engineering focuses on streamlining construction and using regenerative fibers to offer chemical free performance textiles. A good example of this kind of development is Axroma's Outdoor Mackintosh Air yarn, a non-toxic waterproof material for garments. n Actively Circular Eco-Developments Feature in Product Design, Materials & Color. IN THE MARKET / ACTIVEWEAR 6 • Textile Insight ~ Fall 2023 textileinsight.com

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