BEGINNINGS 2024 culturecheesemag.com 53
7. SERVING
6. SALTING
(PT. 2)
Wheels are formed,
often using
salt-soaked bark.
Wheels are submerged
in salty brine and/or
rubbed with salt.
After all that, sometimes
we even serve it with salty
meats and snacks!
Salt Local
On our tabletops, we're living in a local salt
renaissance–but we aren't seeing Amagansett Sea Salt
Co. rinds and Jacobsen Sea Salt Co.-infused brine baths
in our cheeses just yet. So, who is using their local salts?
Italy Greece
United States
Northeastern Italy's Caseificio Mambelli
produces several cheeses with Salina di Cervia
harvested f rom the Adriatic Sea (and even
includes "Al Sale Doce al Cervia" on their labels).
On the island of Lesbos, Tastanis Feta uses salt
f rom the Kalloni Salt Pans. This salt also occurs
naturally in the island's soil, meaning the grazing
sheep eat it, too.
Utah's Beehive Cheese
uses local Redmond Sea
Salt, extracted f rom the
dry seabed of an ancient
inland lake. Though it
produced a grainy paste
when they tried it in the
curd, they've found it's
perfect for rinds.
At Eataly stores across
America, cheesemakers use SoSalt
or Del Destino Sea Salt in their
house-made mozzarella (not to mention
their fresh pasta tanks). "We find Italian
salt performs above and beyond, truly
drawing out flavor and creating a
balanced texture," says Tess McNamara,
Head of Salumi and Formaggi for Eataly
North America. "Kosher salt isn't as
consistent [and] it's harsh
on texture, not to mention that
it is very expensive."
PHOTO:
Salina
di
Cervia
Saltmines:
PaoloMonti/WikimediaCommons;
Kalloni
Salt
Pans:
Antonis
Deligiannis/Adobe
Stock
5. SHAPING