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Beginnings 2024 Culture Magazine

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BEGINNINGS 2024 culturecheesemag.com 53 7. SERVING 6. SALTING (PT. 2) Wheels are formed, often using salt-soaked bark. Wheels are submerged in salty brine and/or rubbed with salt. After all that, sometimes we even serve it with salty meats and snacks! Salt Local On our tabletops, we're living in a local salt renaissance–but we aren't seeing Amagansett Sea Salt Co. rinds and Jacobsen Sea Salt Co.-infused brine baths in our cheeses just yet. So, who is using their local salts? Italy Greece United States Northeastern Italy's Caseificio Mambelli produces several cheeses with Salina di Cervia harvested f rom the Adriatic Sea (and even includes "Al Sale Doce al Cervia" on their labels). On the island of Lesbos, Tastanis Feta uses salt f rom the Kalloni Salt Pans. This salt also occurs naturally in the island's soil, meaning the grazing sheep eat it, too. Utah's Beehive Cheese uses local Redmond Sea Salt, extracted f rom the dry seabed of an ancient inland lake. Though it produced a grainy paste when they tried it in the curd, they've found it's perfect for rinds. At Eataly stores across America, cheesemakers use SoSalt or Del Destino Sea Salt in their house-made mozzarella (not to mention their fresh pasta tanks). "We find Italian salt performs above and beyond, truly drawing out flavor and creating a balanced texture," says Tess McNamara, Head of Salumi and Formaggi for Eataly North America. "Kosher salt isn't as consistent [and] it's harsh on texture, not to mention that it is very expensive." PHOTO: Salina di Cervia Saltmines: PaoloMonti/WikimediaCommons; Kalloni Salt Pans: Antonis Deligiannis/Adobe Stock 5. SHAPING

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